Flexible land pipe

Foul and surface water, private drains and public sewers, land drains and soakaways, filter drains and any other ways of getting rid of water.
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116-1093880940

Post: # 568Post 116-1093880940

I bought some perforated flexible pipe for a land drain for a waterlogged lawn. I asked the builders merchant for some branch connectors but he told me that all I would need to do is run the branch up to the main pipe and that the water would just find its way into the main pipe from the branch. I'm not too sure about this. Can anyone clarify things?

(Edited by tribs at 10:55 pm on July 16, 2002)

84-1093879891

Post: # 570Post 84-1093879891

The BM is basically right, although you can make your own branch junctions as shown on the Land Drainage page, or, if you're really keen and need to provide rodding/cctv access, you can actually but pre-formed oblique junctions from Polypipe.

116-1093880940

Post: # 571Post 116-1093880940

Thanks for the reply. I've just had a search around and I can't find anything on the land drainage pages about creating your own branch junctions. Could you point me in the right direction?

thanks

84-1093879891

Post: # 572Post 84-1093879891

My mistake - the drawings to which I referred were on the old version of this site and I've never replaced them on this new version. Anyway, this is the gist of it.....

Step 1 - Cut ellipse shape out of main pipe using a sharp knife or junior hacksaw. The hole needs to be approx 80mm across the short axis and 150mm along the long axis...

Image

Step 2 - Make a straight vertical cut, approx 300mm long at the end of the branch pipe, ie the pipe that is being added to the system.

Image

Step 3 - Fold over the end of the branch pipe, to form taper as shown

Image

Step 4 - Insert tapered end of branch pipe into elliptical hole in main pipe, ensuring it penetrate by about 50mm at least. Trim the hole or the tapered end to fit.
The tapered end of the branch pipe will expand to fill the hole in the main pipe. Cover with gravel to hold in place.

Image


....I'll have to remember to update that page as soon as I get a chance. :)

MikeyBhoy
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Post: # 63937Post MikeyBhoy

What would be the measurements for an 80mm perforated pipe (I'm assuming these are for a 100mm)?

Pablo
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Post: # 64038Post Pablo

take approx 20mm off all measurements and you'll be grand. It doesn't need to be pretty as long is the water can flow. Way to go digging up an old thread by the way.
Can't see it from my house

GB_Groundworks
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Post: # 64135Post GB_Groundworks

we no longer do this as had problems with collapse of pipes etc and excessive root inflitration

we now use connectors but dont cut the main run and this also leads to sinkage of the main run sometimes. so we slice open the connector form the connection with a hole into the main run and then cable tie etc the connector over it.

this is what i mean (we were told this by our friend who is a pitch care specialist and does 15km of drains a year) he did twickenham etc as the big tracked trenchers.

80mm joining into 100mm main

Image




Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1306755771
Giles

Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.

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seanandruby
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Post: # 64146Post seanandruby

Not wrapped?
sean

GB_Groundworks
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Post: # 64154Post GB_Groundworks

no, 2500 metres on that job. back gardens its ok but on big jobs not a chance. laid in plenty of clean stone

our mate said its not needed
Giles

Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.

http://www.gbgroundworks.com

Dave_L
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Post: # 64192Post Dave_L

With that amount of clean surrounding it I'd say it wasn't needed too.

Mind you you've got to weigh up the stone costs vs pre-wrapped pipe.....
RW Gale Ltd - Civils & Surfacing Contractors based in Somerset

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