Hello
Just taken out Geofix pointing from Marshalls Saxon paving, which did not last six months!
Please advice best option for me now.
Good old 3.1 mortar mix, take me time and be careful.
Romex Easy, strike it in and point,Read good reports on here.
Joints 8-10x 30 mm and have 35m2 to do.
Which would be hardest wearing /last longest?
Thanx in advance MW
Pointing advice - Pointing options
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lutonlagerlout
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Bob_A
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I'm not sure but I think Rompox Easy might have changed
Pity I don't understand German but I think you might wash it in with water?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-wyB19nb8A
At 1min30secs it definitely says they are using Rompox Easy
By the way what went wrong with Geofix
Did it shrink, reduce to dust, come out in lumps?
Pity I don't understand German but I think you might wash it in with water?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-wyB19nb8A
At 1min30secs it definitely says they are using Rompox Easy
By the way what went wrong with Geofix
Did it shrink, reduce to dust, come out in lumps?
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Wildthing
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Thanx Chaps
Geo fix fell through where the chap who did it did not use enough, turned horrid colour and moldie in places.
Whole thing bin a mare, laid in the Feb and looked great but not one of the slabs stuck to the base! even though additive used to guard against frost.
He did it again but heart not in it, some slabs not quite level and slightly uneven gaps.
So over to muggins to fix it.
Bob Romex vid looks like they are using the water to eleviate the need to strike it in!
Will investigate further
TTFN
Geo fix fell through where the chap who did it did not use enough, turned horrid colour and moldie in places.
Whole thing bin a mare, laid in the Feb and looked great but not one of the slabs stuck to the base! even though additive used to guard against frost.
He did it again but heart not in it, some slabs not quite level and slightly uneven gaps.
So over to muggins to fix it.
Bob Romex vid looks like they are using the water to eleviate the need to strike it in!
Will investigate further
TTFN
MW
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Bob_A
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- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 9:30 pm
- Location: SE London/ NW Kent
Just found out that Rompox Easy can be washed in but it doesn't have to be you can still brush it in if you prefer.
I think they should make it clearer in the instructions on the tin 'cos they make no mention of using water.
Probably will do once the old batch of tins have been exhausted?
As for the permeable base I'll leave that to a pro to answer but I'm pretty sure the majority of times Easy is used on non-permeable bases.
I think they should make it clearer in the instructions on the tin 'cos they make no mention of using water.
Probably will do once the old batch of tins have been exhausted?
As for the permeable base I'll leave that to a pro to answer but I'm pretty sure the majority of times Easy is used on non-permeable bases.
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rushd
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have a look at instarmac PaveJoint
PaveJoint
i have just got some for the same reasons... ie. I couldn't use a permeable option.
I queried it with Instarmac themselves... and they say that PaveJoint is impermeable but not waterproof (ie. not suitable for swimming pools).
Instarmac are highly rated by the Pro's on here, so I hope this new product is equally as good as there existing ones!
cheers
PaveJoint
i have just got some for the same reasons... ie. I couldn't use a permeable option.
I queried it with Instarmac themselves... and they say that PaveJoint is impermeable but not waterproof (ie. not suitable for swimming pools).
Instarmac are highly rated by the Pro's on here, so I hope this new product is equally as good as there existing ones!
cheers
Darren
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rushd
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 2:20 pm
- Location: essex
hi
weather has been good so i got to use Instarmac PaveJoint (Neutral) this week. It's a very pale colour.
DIYer review :
It worked well. it's just like sweeping KDS over the whole patio and then washing it off. it appears to be a mix of silica sand, polymers (because when it was starting to go off the residue was a little 'buttery'), and cement (which is what makes it less permeable than other other sweep-in options i guess).
sweeping it in seemed to take a lot longer than i expected purely because you keep going over the areas to try and fill the joints as much as possible, but there comes a point where the stuff you swept in gets swept out again if you pass the brush over it again. it finds it's own level. probably spent far too long on it.
then gave it a good soaking and brushed off the visible stuff remaining on the slabs (which are buffy, concrete and quite highly Riven).
now it's dried out there is a little white residue in some places but i expect this to clean off with a scrubbing brush and a little water, but i'm waiting for the 'full set' period of 3 days before taking any water back onto it. the 'full cure' is claimed to take as long as 28 days (but i guess this is the same as concrete achieving it's full strength weeks after it's laid).
i'm wondering whether some of the white residue is due to efflorescence brought on by soaking it all, but i don't know. i'll see when i try to clean it off. the good thing is that most of it will clean off, whereas cement stains wouldnt.
as a product I like it. it's filled 10+ mm gaps between slabs and i've brushed it into the blockpaved edgings (2mm? gaps), so it should all bond together nicely. the fact that it can be used in such a wide range of joint widths must surely be an advantage, as i don't think gun injected mortars etc cant do 2mm joints.
Wildthing : textured slabs may well hold the residue more than I have experienced with the riven slabs, as the surface of my slabs would be smoother and more undulating so it's easier to flush off the residue where it pools in the water. but with a good brush and plenty of water you'll probably find it's ok.
if your slabs are textured porous and dark though i think you may be best to opt for a conventional pointing method.
only thing i have noticed is that the block paved edgings have held onto some 'whiteness' at the moment, presumably because the "CBP" is more porous than the slabs.hopefully a good wash will remove most of it.
overall i'm breathing easier knowing that the joints are filled now, with a product that i expect to last for longer than i care.
i hope it lasts for years and years! time will tell!
now for the steps!
weather has been good so i got to use Instarmac PaveJoint (Neutral) this week. It's a very pale colour.
DIYer review :
It worked well. it's just like sweeping KDS over the whole patio and then washing it off. it appears to be a mix of silica sand, polymers (because when it was starting to go off the residue was a little 'buttery'), and cement (which is what makes it less permeable than other other sweep-in options i guess).
sweeping it in seemed to take a lot longer than i expected purely because you keep going over the areas to try and fill the joints as much as possible, but there comes a point where the stuff you swept in gets swept out again if you pass the brush over it again. it finds it's own level. probably spent far too long on it.
then gave it a good soaking and brushed off the visible stuff remaining on the slabs (which are buffy, concrete and quite highly Riven).
now it's dried out there is a little white residue in some places but i expect this to clean off with a scrubbing brush and a little water, but i'm waiting for the 'full set' period of 3 days before taking any water back onto it. the 'full cure' is claimed to take as long as 28 days (but i guess this is the same as concrete achieving it's full strength weeks after it's laid).
i'm wondering whether some of the white residue is due to efflorescence brought on by soaking it all, but i don't know. i'll see when i try to clean it off. the good thing is that most of it will clean off, whereas cement stains wouldnt.
as a product I like it. it's filled 10+ mm gaps between slabs and i've brushed it into the blockpaved edgings (2mm? gaps), so it should all bond together nicely. the fact that it can be used in such a wide range of joint widths must surely be an advantage, as i don't think gun injected mortars etc cant do 2mm joints.
Wildthing : textured slabs may well hold the residue more than I have experienced with the riven slabs, as the surface of my slabs would be smoother and more undulating so it's easier to flush off the residue where it pools in the water. but with a good brush and plenty of water you'll probably find it's ok.
if your slabs are textured porous and dark though i think you may be best to opt for a conventional pointing method.
only thing i have noticed is that the block paved edgings have held onto some 'whiteness' at the moment, presumably because the "CBP" is more porous than the slabs.hopefully a good wash will remove most of it.
overall i'm breathing easier knowing that the joints are filled now, with a product that i expect to last for longer than i care.
i hope it lasts for years and years! time will tell!
now for the steps!
Darren