Top Tip

[Alan Collinge]

As a DIY'er I hope I'm not stepping on anybody's toes by posting a tip, but this was given to me by a pro' over the weekend and is a tip that I haven't seen anywhere on this very informative site.

I'm currently doing my very first block paving project which is my home driveway (135 sq mts). I bit off more than I can chew I must admit because at 57 I'm feeling the pain in every joint. However, I finally started on the more 'enjoyable' part of the job last weekend (in between showers), laying the blocks, but after putting down about 1,000 I realised that I was running out of square and my joints began to look like a wavy tramline on the Golden Mile.

As I was toying with the options, 1. Carry on and hope for the best: 2. take them all up and start again: 3. commit suicide, my local 'expert' called in to see how I was going on.

He saved the day by helping me get everything back into shape and recommending that at every gap along the edges where a cut needs to made, temporarily fill the gap with a brick stood on edge. This will maintain the correct spacing and help to keep everything in line.

It works for me...

[84-1093879891]

I was sure I had a picture of this 'tip' in action, but it's not where I thought it was.

It's a neat tip, Alan, and is used by most gangs, but as is often the case, the little tips and tricks that we take for granted as obvious are anything but obvious to the DIYers out there, and I really should incorporate this technique into the next re-write.

In the meantime, if you (or anyone else) can get me a photo of the technique in action, I'd be much obliged.

[Alan Collinge]

I'll get the camera out tonight. Should be with you first thing tomorrow.

[Paverman Dan]

Not sure what he is talking about here . . love to see the photo. Common problem with long running bonds.

[84-1093879891]

Here it is...



..the principle is dead simple: the block stood on end ensures the subsequent blocks are accurately spaced without having to cut in at this stage, or to have blocks projecting beyond the laying area. This is more commonly done against a fixed edge course, where, when laying this particular pattern (90 degree Herringbone), a half block is required to complete the pattern.

Some gangs have half-blocks prepared in advance and place them directly into the pattern, but the block-on-edge trick is probably the more popular methodology.

Once the laying has been completed, it's easy to drop back, pluck out each of the upright blocks and trim them down as required to fit the paving.

[Alan Collinge]

Sorry Tony, the photo isn't the best example of this particular tip but I had already completed all the cuts against the fixed edge. This shot was 'set-up' just to show the theory.

And as of 20:00 yesterday, my driveway is complete and fully operational. HOORAY!

Alan

[alan ditchfield]

Would the spacers on the upright block not hit the spacers on the horizontal block therefore giving you an expanded joint of around 2mm per block it would be better using actual half block layed horizontally as the spacers are not meant to overlap and are designed to give an even joint, but i like the idea.

[84-1093879891]

It depends on the brand of blocks - different manufacturers put their spacer lugs in different positions on the block edges. Examining the spacer lugs, their shape and alignment, is one of the best non-destructive ways to identify individual manufacturers with older, weathered blocks.

However, in most cases, there's no real issue with the spacers - even if they do clash, the paving tends to self-correct when it comes to cutting-in.

[alan ditchfield]

suppose so i was talking about the old favourite or do i not dare say the m word on this site. i was just thinking that the spacers are meant not to meet and using this meathod they will allways meet