Cutting curves
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 3:33 pm
- Location: Bracknell
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 3:33 pm
- Location: Bracknell
Hello Tony,
It was described as a "Dutch" pattern in a paving book. It's a regular pattern using combinations of 600x600, 600x300 & 300x300, is the best way I could describe it.
This is my first attempt at a patio so as for tools - none at the moment. I was planning to find out what the experts recommended, buy or hire and then do a lot of practice!
It was described as a "Dutch" pattern in a paving book. It's a regular pattern using combinations of 600x600, 600x300 & 300x300, is the best way I could describe it.
This is my first attempt at a patio so as for tools - none at the moment. I was planning to find out what the experts recommended, buy or hire and then do a lot of practice!
Which paving book, Nigel? I'm intrigued, as I've not come across the term 'Dutch Pattern' in relation to flags before.
Anyway, your best tool, given you're diy, would be a Power Cut-Off Saw or a Nangle Grinder. You must wear goggles and a dust mask when using either of these tools.
Lay your flags so they extend just beyond the line of cut, then mark out your curve with a piece of slate, or chalk. For really accurate curves, you could locate the point of origin and swing an arc from that, but, usually, as long as the curve(s) look sweet to the eye, they'll be fine. Spend a bit of time marking out the curve(s). Stand back and examine the marked line of cut from 5 metres away, from each side, and, if you can, from an upstairs window. Make all your adjustments with the slate/chalk marking - it's much harder to correct misalignment once you've started cutting.
Start at one end of the mark with the saw/nangle grinder, and make sure no-one is stood behind you, in the path of the dust/shrapnel. Lightly score your line of cut with long sweeping moves, then, once you're happy with the score, return over the work and cut to approx half depth of the flags, angling the saw/nangle grinder so that you're undercutting the required section of flag.
A few light taps with a hammer will break off the the unwanted sections.
If you plan to have exposed edges, you may need to saw to full depth and to keep the blade plumb for best finish. If you have a lot of cuts to do in this manner, it's best done with a diamond blade on a power saw, as depth of cut is maintained, unlike an abrasive blade, which wears down as it cuts.
How's that?
Anyway, your best tool, given you're diy, would be a Power Cut-Off Saw or a Nangle Grinder. You must wear goggles and a dust mask when using either of these tools.
Lay your flags so they extend just beyond the line of cut, then mark out your curve with a piece of slate, or chalk. For really accurate curves, you could locate the point of origin and swing an arc from that, but, usually, as long as the curve(s) look sweet to the eye, they'll be fine. Spend a bit of time marking out the curve(s). Stand back and examine the marked line of cut from 5 metres away, from each side, and, if you can, from an upstairs window. Make all your adjustments with the slate/chalk marking - it's much harder to correct misalignment once you've started cutting.
Start at one end of the mark with the saw/nangle grinder, and make sure no-one is stood behind you, in the path of the dust/shrapnel. Lightly score your line of cut with long sweeping moves, then, once you're happy with the score, return over the work and cut to approx half depth of the flags, angling the saw/nangle grinder so that you're undercutting the required section of flag.
A few light taps with a hammer will break off the the unwanted sections.
If you plan to have exposed edges, you may need to saw to full depth and to keep the blade plumb for best finish. If you have a lot of cuts to do in this manner, it's best done with a diamond blade on a power saw, as depth of cut is maintained, unlike an abrasive blade, which wears down as it cuts.
How's that?
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 3:33 pm
- Location: Bracknell
I think I've found the pattern to which you refer, but it's not the Dutch Pattern I know - I suspect it's been entitled 'Dutch Pattern' by someone looking for an appealing name, as the Dutch Pattern i know from the flooring trade features three 'blocks' laid horizontally spanned by a single vertical block....
...whereas your 'Dutch pattern' involves 3 sizes in a repetitive, modular sequence....
....is that it?
...whereas your 'Dutch pattern' involves 3 sizes in a repetitive, modular sequence....
....is that it?
Thanks for the image, Nigel.....
....yet another variation on a so-called 'Dutch Pattern', although that is what we call a 2-size herringbone!
Thinking about it, I'm sure there's a pattern book somewhere that calls the above "Tudor" pattern - I reckon folk just call them a fancy name that means something to them, if not to anyone else!
....yet another variation on a so-called 'Dutch Pattern', although that is what we call a 2-size herringbone!
Thinking about it, I'm sure there's a pattern book somewhere that calls the above "Tudor" pattern - I reckon folk just call them a fancy name that means something to them, if not to anyone else!
Guys I am very interested in these patterns as I have just bought 32 sq/mts of Indian Sandstone and it comes in these three sizes. I was just wondering do you know of any other patterns that you can make up with these three sizes.
Also my patio has a curved wall in it. What is the best way to cut the flags to sit in perfectly against the wall.
Fergus
PS I can't believe how good this site is, I was ranting about it to my friends over a few pints of guinness on Sat night.
Also my patio has a curved wall in it. What is the best way to cut the flags to sit in perfectly against the wall.
Fergus
PS I can't believe how good this site is, I was ranting about it to my friends over a few pints of guinness on Sat night.
There's a few different pattern you can make using 3 sizes, Fergus - it very much depends on the actual sizes, though, and whether they are 'modular', ie, multiples of a base dimensions such as 150mm, 300mm, 450mm, 600mm etc.
What sizes have you?
Cutting against a curved wall - bugger of a job! For us so-called 'hexperts', we use offset measures or a profile gauge, but it'd take me so long to explain the procedure, it'd be simpler for me to come around and cut the damned things for you! For diy'ers, I reckon the simplest method is to make a template from cardboard, cutting it with apair of scissors until it fits the gap exactly, then transfer the template to the flag itself and cut it using a power saw or nangle grinder.
Finally, there's a Guinness tax on this site. You can't sup Gunness without buying me a pint! ;)
What sizes have you?
Cutting against a curved wall - bugger of a job! For us so-called 'hexperts', we use offset measures or a profile gauge, but it'd take me so long to explain the procedure, it'd be simpler for me to come around and cut the damned things for you! For diy'ers, I reckon the simplest method is to make a template from cardboard, cutting it with apair of scissors until it fits the gap exactly, then transfer the template to the flag itself and cut it using a power saw or nangle grinder.
Finally, there's a Guinness tax on this site. You can't sup Gunness without buying me a pint! ;)
With those sizes, you could do the modular sequence, shown above, a coursed pattern or a random-ish layout, or a sort of basketweave-cum-herringbone pattern. It all depends on what look you're after achieving.
I'll be over in Wicklow at the end of July, but, hopefully, you'll have it all done by then, Fergus, so there's no point in me bringing my tools with me! ;)
I'll be over in Wicklow at the end of July, but, hopefully, you'll have it all done by then, Fergus, so there's no point in me bringing my tools with me! ;)
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 3:33 pm
- Location: Bracknell