Laying patio & path
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Suggers you and your photo shop....it's called a good camera lol chimney stacks.... who builds them anymore
It is nice to see such a tidy job. I think for that your alright with the barrow. LLL didnt offer me a mixer when i had to mix 5 ton in the barrow the @*#% ???
It is nice to see such a tidy job. I think for that your alright with the barrow. LLL didnt offer me a mixer when i had to mix 5 ton in the barrow the @*#% ???
"I'm spending a year dead for tax reasons."
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Yeah, im either gonna take the turf off and stonechip it, or topsoil it and have some plants growing up round the fences. Although i dont want plants that are going to grow over where the patio is going to be...seanandruby wrote:Are you going to install something around the edges and side of the shed? Only ask, because, when you build your wall, it will be a fecker getting the mower in and is wasted ground really serving no purpose.
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So ive only made a little progress. I found out the other week the flags are not going to arrive until the end of June so i stepped off the gas a little.
Ive laid the retaining wall made up of concrete bricks, and then another level of smaller concrete bricks on top. The idea will be to render the wall and have the sides of the walls running down in a slope to the front of the patio.
I think i dug down a little too much (i blame the pick axe), so had to order up another 2 tons of type 1. Think the level of it is almost correct now, as with the mortar base the flags should just sit slightly above the grass level.
Ive laid the retaining wall made up of concrete bricks, and then another level of smaller concrete bricks on top. The idea will be to render the wall and have the sides of the walls running down in a slope to the front of the patio.
I think i dug down a little too much (i blame the pick axe), so had to order up another 2 tons of type 1. Think the level of it is almost correct now, as with the mortar base the flags should just sit slightly above the grass level.
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well after waiting a month and a bit for the slabs they have arrived, im not overly impressed though 2 arrived cracked and the smaller slabs were a bit loose so have rub marks:
alot of them have saw marks and black deposits on them:
Now the cracked 600x900, is what most of them look like they are all fine, majority of the 600x600's are fine, and majority of the 600x295s are fine. However the majority of the 295x295 are marked and scraped.
Is it possible to get rid of the blackish deposits on them? Or would i be better off taking it up with the company i purchased them from?
alot of them have saw marks and black deposits on them:
Now the cracked 600x900, is what most of them look like they are all fine, majority of the 600x600's are fine, and majority of the 600x295s are fine. However the majority of the 295x295 are marked and scraped.
Is it possible to get rid of the blackish deposits on them? Or would i be better off taking it up with the company i purchased them from?
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Ive decided to crack on and use the slabs i have, will take up the broken ones with the company i purchased them from, see what they say.
Today i rented a whacker from HSS (£10 off hire if over £40 ex vat if order online) damn they are heavy! Went for the medium 16.5kn. Seems to have made the sub base solid.
This leaves me with rough 30mm of mortar mix for the base for the slabs, so the slabs will sit flush with the grass. Heres a piccy, not so sunny here today!
Still need to finish off the wall down to the front and then render them.
Today i rented a whacker from HSS (£10 off hire if over £40 ex vat if order online) damn they are heavy! Went for the medium 16.5kn. Seems to have made the sub base solid.
This leaves me with rough 30mm of mortar mix for the base for the slabs, so the slabs will sit flush with the grass. Heres a piccy, not so sunny here today!
Still need to finish off the wall down to the front and then render them.
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Well i rented a mixer from HSS this weekend and cracked on. Was unable to start until 5pm last night so finished up at 9pm and this was what greeted me on sunday morning:
It was time to crack on, it ended up going on around 35mm of a wet mix to get the flags to the correct level. This is what it looks like at the end of today, i still need to render the walls smooth (they aren't 100% straight) and paint them white:
Cant thank the info thats available on this site enough, as i havent done this before and its turned out resonably well!
Looks like i will have to pick up some romex, what would be the best romex product to cover the pointing needing done?
It was time to crack on, it ended up going on around 35mm of a wet mix to get the flags to the correct level. This is what it looks like at the end of today, i still need to render the walls smooth (they aren't 100% straight) and paint them white:
Cant thank the info thats available on this site enough, as i havent done this before and its turned out resonably well!
Looks like i will have to pick up some romex, what would be the best romex product to cover the pointing needing done?
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SBR (Ronafix) in the mortar will give you resistance to water penetration and subsequent freeze/thaw damage and debond of the blocks.
If you've never experienced this then it's hard to justify the cost of Ronafix in the mortar. But if after putting in all that effort and cost the blocks come loose, you'll wish you had.
See the Ronafix For Bedding Mortars guidance sheet. For your application you can use less Ronafix and more water, reducing Ronafix from 14 litres to 9, and upping the water from 4 litres to 9. Or by volume this becomes 1:1 Ronafix : water added to the cement and sand.
The mix for the primer remains as 1:1 Ronafix:cement.
If you've never experienced this then it's hard to justify the cost of Ronafix in the mortar. But if after putting in all that effort and cost the blocks come loose, you'll wish you had.
See the Ronafix For Bedding Mortars guidance sheet. For your application you can use less Ronafix and more water, reducing Ronafix from 14 litres to 9, and upping the water from 4 litres to 9. Or by volume this becomes 1:1 Ronafix : water added to the cement and sand.
The mix for the primer remains as 1:1 Ronafix:cement.
Simeon Osen
Ronacrete Ltd - http://www.ronacrete.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 1279 638 700
Follow us at http://www.twitter.com/Ronacrete
Ronacrete Ltd - http://www.ronacrete.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 1279 638 700
Follow us at http://www.twitter.com/Ronacrete
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have been in the game for years thats over specked by a long way rompox easy will be far easier for the diy boys am sure your spec would cap the leaking gulf oil well :psimeonronacrete wrote:SBR (Ronafix) in the mortar will give you resistance to water penetration and subsequent freeze/thaw damage and debond of the blocks.
If you've never experienced this then it's hard to justify the cost of Ronafix in the mortar. But if after putting in all that effort and cost the blocks come loose, you'll wish you had.
See the Ronafix For Bedding Mortars guidance sheet. For your application you can use less Ronafix and more water, reducing Ronafix from 14 litres to 9, and upping the water from 4 litres to 9. Or by volume this becomes 1:1 Ronafix : water added to the cement and sand.
The mix for the primer remains as 1:1 Ronafix:cement.
Originalstonepaving.com
The very best in natural stone paving in new and reclaimed materials
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The very best in natural stone paving in new and reclaimed materials
M: 07968 582231