Garage wall detail

Other groundworks tasks, such as roads and footpaths, terracing, fencing, foundations, walls and brickwork, tools and plant.
Post Reply
hondacrm
Posts: 41
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:24 pm
Location: East Midlands

Post: # 46293Post hondacrm

I have finally decided to get a proper garage built on the side of the house but as you can see from the attached photo, the width of the site is at a premium. I can just about get the nissan micra in without having to climb out of the sunroof.

I am trying to think of a different approach to constructing the garage side wall to reduce its width and therefore give me more usable space inside. I have got some basic plans drawn up but wondered if anyone had any ideas or seen a different method to the traditional design being proposed.

Thanks for any comments.

PS: The drive also needs to be done. I was thinking of having setts?


Image


Image


Image
hondacrm

lutonlagerlout
Site Admin
Posts: 15184
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
Location: bedfordshire

Post: # 46296Post lutonlagerlout

are you actually planning on putting your car away?
most garages i build are filled up with all sorts bar the car in a matter of weeks
for maximum space (for getting in/out ) you could have a carport,but i guess that is what you have now
on the plans the door looks 7 ft wide that is basically your standard garage
its always tight
LLL
"what,you want paying today??"

YOUR TEXT GOES HERE

hondacrm
Posts: 41
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:24 pm
Location: East Midlands

Post: # 46309Post hondacrm

yes, the space it is definetly required for a car and what I have got now is basically a carport.

I might be able to win a few more inches when it actually gets built.....
hondacrm

lutonlagerlout
Site Admin
Posts: 15184
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
Location: bedfordshire

Post: # 46316Post lutonlagerlout

i see the wall is built to the boundary line and the gutter sits atop the wall,
that honda is a real fail detail,I have seen it done loads of times but it is expensive to do (loads of code4 lead) and hard to maintain
is there any reason why the architect has shown the footing as 775mm wide? for a single skin garage with piers 400mm is normally ample?
other alternative is to build the garage behind the house detacthed
then you have to drive past the house to get to it
what width will you have as it stands?
regards LLL
"what,you want paying today??"

YOUR TEXT GOES HERE

lutonlagerlout
Site Admin
Posts: 15184
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
Location: bedfordshire

Post: # 46317Post lutonlagerlout

another way we have done it is to take out the outer skin of brickwork on the existing house and put a steel in high level to take the roof
you gain 150 mm this way on cavity walls
sadly with your chimneys and 225mm solid walls this wont work
LLL
"what,you want paying today??"

YOUR TEXT GOES HERE

seanandruby
Site Admin
Posts: 4713
Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:01 am
Location: eastbourne

Post: # 46328Post seanandruby

It looks kind of out of place anyway. I think i would look at building it with a nice window and door installed and use it purely as an extra room, or for storage.
sean

hondacrm
Posts: 41
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:24 pm
Location: East Midlands

Post: # 46339Post hondacrm

The distance between the boundary and chimney is 2.5m.
I think the 775mm was specified because there is a differential in levels between the two neighbouring properties (approx 0.5m) and the first 0.5m of brickwork would have to be a brick and half for a retaining wall function although this is not shown on the drawing and I need to check this.

mrs honda's option was to build the garage in the garden but the shed and greenhouse are now built where the garage would have gone.

The comment about the gutter detail is a bit worrying LLL. Where would you need the leadwork and how does it fail?

Not all of the similar properties in the road have a garage. It looks like it was an additional extra at the time the houses were built. One house in the road has knocked down the existing garage and built an extra room but I am also looking to use the garage as a workshop facility so I can't go for the additional room.

I had an idea that it may be possible to drive in some I- beams, put brickwork in between with a steel on top to take the roof. Not sure if this would work in practice?
hondacrm

lutonlagerlout
Site Admin
Posts: 15184
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
Location: bedfordshire

Post: # 46340Post lutonlagerlout

if you made goalposts from universal steel beams ( formerly RSJs) the cost would be prohibitive
if you have a 7 ft door at the front (width) then with the garage door frame you need a 2.3M opening

this leaves you maybe a 335 brick pier at the front (brick and a half) its not ideal but maybe with a strengthened up roof it will be ok
most garages i build have a minimum 445 pier at the front
speak to your architect some more and explain your dilemma
its going to be tight getting in and out but i have seen tighter
LLL
"what,you want paying today??"

YOUR TEXT GOES HERE

hondacrm
Posts: 41
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:24 pm
Location: East Midlands

Post: # 46344Post hondacrm

had a look at the existing garages up the road. 8 out of 10 have a brick and a half pier, the other 2 are single brick.

will speak to the architect when the detailed drawings are being done. thanks for the comments.
hondacrm

Post Reply