Garage wall detail
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I have finally decided to get a proper garage built on the side of the house but as you can see from the attached photo, the width of the site is at a premium. I can just about get the nissan micra in without having to climb out of the sunroof.
I am trying to think of a different approach to constructing the garage side wall to reduce its width and therefore give me more usable space inside. I have got some basic plans drawn up but wondered if anyone had any ideas or seen a different method to the traditional design being proposed.
Thanks for any comments.
PS: The drive also needs to be done. I was thinking of having setts?
I am trying to think of a different approach to constructing the garage side wall to reduce its width and therefore give me more usable space inside. I have got some basic plans drawn up but wondered if anyone had any ideas or seen a different method to the traditional design being proposed.
Thanks for any comments.
PS: The drive also needs to be done. I was thinking of having setts?
hondacrm
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are you actually planning on putting your car away?
most garages i build are filled up with all sorts bar the car in a matter of weeks
for maximum space (for getting in/out ) you could have a carport,but i guess that is what you have now
on the plans the door looks 7 ft wide that is basically your standard garage
its always tight
LLL
most garages i build are filled up with all sorts bar the car in a matter of weeks
for maximum space (for getting in/out ) you could have a carport,but i guess that is what you have now
on the plans the door looks 7 ft wide that is basically your standard garage
its always tight
LLL
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i see the wall is built to the boundary line and the gutter sits atop the wall,
that honda is a real fail detail,I have seen it done loads of times but it is expensive to do (loads of code4 lead) and hard to maintain
is there any reason why the architect has shown the footing as 775mm wide? for a single skin garage with piers 400mm is normally ample?
other alternative is to build the garage behind the house detacthed
then you have to drive past the house to get to it
what width will you have as it stands?
regards LLL
that honda is a real fail detail,I have seen it done loads of times but it is expensive to do (loads of code4 lead) and hard to maintain
is there any reason why the architect has shown the footing as 775mm wide? for a single skin garage with piers 400mm is normally ample?
other alternative is to build the garage behind the house detacthed
then you have to drive past the house to get to it
what width will you have as it stands?
regards LLL
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The distance between the boundary and chimney is 2.5m.
I think the 775mm was specified because there is a differential in levels between the two neighbouring properties (approx 0.5m) and the first 0.5m of brickwork would have to be a brick and half for a retaining wall function although this is not shown on the drawing and I need to check this.
mrs honda's option was to build the garage in the garden but the shed and greenhouse are now built where the garage would have gone.
The comment about the gutter detail is a bit worrying LLL. Where would you need the leadwork and how does it fail?
Not all of the similar properties in the road have a garage. It looks like it was an additional extra at the time the houses were built. One house in the road has knocked down the existing garage and built an extra room but I am also looking to use the garage as a workshop facility so I can't go for the additional room.
I had an idea that it may be possible to drive in some I- beams, put brickwork in between with a steel on top to take the roof. Not sure if this would work in practice?
I think the 775mm was specified because there is a differential in levels between the two neighbouring properties (approx 0.5m) and the first 0.5m of brickwork would have to be a brick and half for a retaining wall function although this is not shown on the drawing and I need to check this.
mrs honda's option was to build the garage in the garden but the shed and greenhouse are now built where the garage would have gone.
The comment about the gutter detail is a bit worrying LLL. Where would you need the leadwork and how does it fail?
Not all of the similar properties in the road have a garage. It looks like it was an additional extra at the time the houses were built. One house in the road has knocked down the existing garage and built an extra room but I am also looking to use the garage as a workshop facility so I can't go for the additional room.
I had an idea that it may be possible to drive in some I- beams, put brickwork in between with a steel on top to take the roof. Not sure if this would work in practice?
hondacrm
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if you made goalposts from universal steel beams ( formerly RSJs) the cost would be prohibitive
if you have a 7 ft door at the front (width) then with the garage door frame you need a 2.3M opening
this leaves you maybe a 335 brick pier at the front (brick and a half) its not ideal but maybe with a strengthened up roof it will be ok
most garages i build have a minimum 445 pier at the front
speak to your architect some more and explain your dilemma
its going to be tight getting in and out but i have seen tighter
LLL
if you have a 7 ft door at the front (width) then with the garage door frame you need a 2.3M opening
this leaves you maybe a 335 brick pier at the front (brick and a half) its not ideal but maybe with a strengthened up roof it will be ok
most garages i build have a minimum 445 pier at the front
speak to your architect some more and explain your dilemma
its going to be tight getting in and out but i have seen tighter
LLL
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