Just to check im doing it right!

[Wills gardens]

So I have done as many patios last year as I have done with planting.


The way I have been doing it is to excavate down to 150mm

100mm sub base plate wacked down level

mortar bed ontop of the sub base sticking the slabs down

dry mix brushed into wet joints and finished

seems to work for me but does it sound ok?

This is only for patios and not anything thats going to have cars on it

cheers WIll

[lutonlagerlout]

"dry mix brushed into wet joints and finished"

epic fail will

you need to use a moist mix for pointing and use a trowel or jonting iron to push it into the joints
also ensure full bed of mortar under flags
other than that fine m8
LLL

[Wills gardens]

thats what i meant with the joints, lay the slabs on a full bed, let it cure for like 3 hours then wet the joints and brush in sand/cement mix dry then run over it with a pointer, saves you staining the slabs

[GB_Groundworks]

nope

what tony (lout) said if you use a proper mix of mortar but let it get to the point where is still malleable but not completely dry then point with this you'll get a strong joint that's last and wont stain the flags plus you can strike it with an iron a trowl or a i find a piece of 15mm copper or polly pipe gives a nice finish.

get a cuppa and spend a few hours reading the main site its the best time you'll spend and a really good investment in your business

[Wills gardens]

beer in hand im off for a real read then

[DNgroundworks]

i still wouldnt have much confidence in that method, the mix has got to be wet when applied to the joint and finished with a trowel - i tried the "dry" method once when i first laid indian stone years ago as LLL says epic fail!

[GB_Groundworks]

specifically http://www.pavingexpert.com/pointing.htm

quote:

We only use this dry grouting method with freshly buttered joints, where find that there is sufficient moisture from the 'proper' mortar to initiate setting of the dry mix. Dry mix into dry joints rarely, if ever, produces a good joint

[lutonlagerlout]

here is one i did earlier

you can see the indian stone has taken some moisture from the mortar,but this mortar was what brickie's would call stiff
cheers LLL




Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1263241821

[rab1]

nice looking job

[Wills gardens]

so from reading some more im stuck as to whether a base is needed?

typically i have been puting down 100mm dtp1 and wacking it down then mortar to that but now im thinking maybe i could use a 75mm base? save some costs?

Will they really last on a solid wacked earth base?

[cookiewales]

so from reading some more im stuck as to whether a base is needed?

typically i have been puting down 100mm dtp1 and wacking it down then mortar to that but now im thinking maybe i could use a 75mm base? save some costs?

Will they really last on a solid wacked earth base?

you can not lay on earth wacked or not thats for the cowboys :p

[Bob_A]

I asked on here whether a sub base is needed for a patio. The answer being that it may be ok but rather than take a chance use one anyway.
I seem to remember 75mm sub base is usually ok but always dig deeper if you come across any suspect areas.
I also seem to remember 75mm as being ok if you're using type1, something to do with size of the larger paricles being approx half of 75mm or summat like that, I'm sure one of the pro's can explain it better :p

[Wills gardens]

75 it is then saves me a bit so a tiny bit more profit wohooo

[lutonlagerlout]

pros would use 100mm will
MOT cost feck all in the scheme of things,100mm compacted is ideal
maybe more if the ground is soft
LLL

[Bob_A]

This is well worth a read
http://www.pavingexpert.com/faq_subbase.htm#reqd