Hi All
I have just joined, no doubt like many others having gained much inspiration and ideas from this website. Details of front driveway to be paved as follows:
- Approx 185m2 in Natural Paving's Walnut sawn sandstone blocks, stretched bond pattern in 3 sizes.
- Sizes and quantities: 2,240 of 250x150mm / 1,960 of 200x150mm / 1,564 of 150x150mm.
Would very much appreciate some advise on a couple of points as our builder has not worked with this product before:
1. Spacing - as the blocks are sawn, what would be the best way to achieve even 2mm spacing? I've been advised to butt the blocks up against each other but am concerned this may leave too tight a joint which will be difficult to fill with sand.
2. Pattern - is there anywhere I could find a pattern(s) relating to the above ratio of blocks? Failing that, I would be happy to pay a nominal fee for an expert to design one!
Thanks in anticipation
Andy
Spacing and pattern
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- Site Admin
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are you looking for a coursed and bonded layout or something slightly random?
when laying tegula or argent (as i was today) i get the lads to bring me the blocks from 4 packs but as they come layer by layer
this ensures even colour mix and even distribution of the sizes,this works if the blocks are pre mixed in the packs
If however the blocks come in their individual sizes then you need to work out how many metres of each size you have and work out the ratio
i.e. 60 m2 large 40m2 medium and 20m2 small would mean that you want the blocks loaded out 6:4:2 then the layer would randomise
if you need a detailed layout the guvnor charges a small fee for excellent plans,, see here for details
regarding spacing,use 5mm tile spacers
regards LLL
when laying tegula or argent (as i was today) i get the lads to bring me the blocks from 4 packs but as they come layer by layer
this ensures even colour mix and even distribution of the sizes,this works if the blocks are pre mixed in the packs
If however the blocks come in their individual sizes then you need to work out how many metres of each size you have and work out the ratio
i.e. 60 m2 large 40m2 medium and 20m2 small would mean that you want the blocks loaded out 6:4:2 then the layer would randomise
if you need a detailed layout the guvnor charges a small fee for excellent plans,, see here for details
regarding spacing,use 5mm tile spacers
regards LLL
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: Fri Nov 20, 2009 11:41 pm
- Location: South Liverpool
- Contact:
With the quantitys you have and the sizes, i would only lay it in a stretcher bond and it would look boss laid that way anyway.
From the quantitys you have said 2240 large, 1960 med & 1564 small, i have worked out the following ratio-
Large 6 (374 piles)knock 1 off on 18 trips to be precise !!!
Med 5 (392 piles)
small 4 (391 piles)
so basically every time the lad goes to the packs to get blocks get 6-L 5-M 4-S in that ratio cos what you dont want to do is be left with loads of one size of block as you get near the end,and have to throw loads of that size in and spoil the balance of the whole job ,if you know what i mean like. just carry them if your packs are near if not barrow them but double up the same ratios .
Keep to the same ratio for your border/edge unless you want it as a single size and a bit more maths is needed like as you would have to work out the lineal metres of the perimeter etc.
this is all presuming that the packs of block are separate not pre-mixed.
hope this helps, just get in contact if you need anything else mate.
From the quantitys you have said 2240 large, 1960 med & 1564 small, i have worked out the following ratio-
Large 6 (374 piles)knock 1 off on 18 trips to be precise !!!
Med 5 (392 piles)
small 4 (391 piles)
so basically every time the lad goes to the packs to get blocks get 6-L 5-M 4-S in that ratio cos what you dont want to do is be left with loads of one size of block as you get near the end,and have to throw loads of that size in and spoil the balance of the whole job ,if you know what i mean like. just carry them if your packs are near if not barrow them but double up the same ratios .
Keep to the same ratio for your border/edge unless you want it as a single size and a bit more maths is needed like as you would have to work out the lineal metres of the perimeter etc.
this is all presuming that the packs of block are separate not pre-mixed.
hope this helps, just get in contact if you need anything else mate.
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- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:28 pm
- Location: Dorset, UK
Many thanks LLL and matty - much appreciated. The blocks come in same size packs and we'd definitely like a random layout stretcher bond pattern so the 6-5-4 approach sounds great. Just got get our builder to enter random mode when specific instructions have been the order of the day thus far - might yet contact the guvnor for a plan and make life easy for all concerned!
May I ask what might seem a daft question - do the tile spacers "drop" behind the blocks and become lost in the joint sand or should they stand proud and be removed prior to filling in?
Also, the kerb edgings will be mainly straight but where there are curves, should the kerb stones be butted up tight with taper gaps showing or filled with mortar?
Thanks
Andy
May I ask what might seem a daft question - do the tile spacers "drop" behind the blocks and become lost in the joint sand or should they stand proud and be removed prior to filling in?
Also, the kerb edgings will be mainly straight but where there are curves, should the kerb stones be butted up tight with taper gaps showing or filled with mortar?
Thanks
Andy
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- Posts: 66
- Joined: Fri Nov 20, 2009 11:41 pm
- Location: South Liverpool
- Contact:
Alright Andy,
I presume you will be laying the block on a screeded sand (flexible) bed, if this is the case then I would lay lay them with maybe a 2mm joint with a tile spacer as LLL said with your spacer sticking up, and sand your joints say like every 2 courses then remove your spacers and procede.The sand will lock them in place.
The usual practice with a standard block with a nib/spacer, would be to make a couple of passes with the wacker (when completed)before sanding ,to encourage the laying course to rise into the joint then to apply your sand for another 2 passes.
To be honest i have never laid a sawn (small) block before, thousands of m2 of "normal" block but not that type, so I would stand corrected if this is not the text book method of spacing but it seems the most practical way to me.
When I have layed sawn setts of a larger size, as I am at the moment 450x150 I am laying them on a ridgid bed with a 5mm joint, by eye, and jointing it with a rapid set pre-mixed slurry called "flow-point" boss gear ! but for what you are doing a flexible bed is defo the way to go.
Your kerbs mate, mortar them on the curve with a colour dye as long as your joint isnt more than about 15mm otherwise a cut will be needed. Personally I would mortar every joint as it can look odd just doing the curved ones ,if you know what I mean. It will take a bit longer but would look alot more betterererer:) Have a look on my web-site at the section on detailing .
Just let me know if you need anything else mate,
Matty.
I presume you will be laying the block on a screeded sand (flexible) bed, if this is the case then I would lay lay them with maybe a 2mm joint with a tile spacer as LLL said with your spacer sticking up, and sand your joints say like every 2 courses then remove your spacers and procede.The sand will lock them in place.
The usual practice with a standard block with a nib/spacer, would be to make a couple of passes with the wacker (when completed)before sanding ,to encourage the laying course to rise into the joint then to apply your sand for another 2 passes.
To be honest i have never laid a sawn (small) block before, thousands of m2 of "normal" block but not that type, so I would stand corrected if this is not the text book method of spacing but it seems the most practical way to me.
When I have layed sawn setts of a larger size, as I am at the moment 450x150 I am laying them on a ridgid bed with a 5mm joint, by eye, and jointing it with a rapid set pre-mixed slurry called "flow-point" boss gear ! but for what you are doing a flexible bed is defo the way to go.
Your kerbs mate, mortar them on the curve with a colour dye as long as your joint isnt more than about 15mm otherwise a cut will be needed. Personally I would mortar every joint as it can look odd just doing the curved ones ,if you know what I mean. It will take a bit longer but would look alot more betterererer:) Have a look on my web-site at the section on detailing .
Just let me know if you need anything else mate,
Matty.