Thanks to tony mcc - An idea posted on paving expert

[mickg]

having seen this idea posted on pavingexpert by Tony I have implemented it on the driveway I am currently working on

existing edging to the basement window



new brick wall and angle iron frame to hold the tegula key kerbs in place





Basement window 2



Thanks Tony brilliant idea

[lutonlagerlout]

nice neat idea mickg
but where does the water go?
LLL

[mickg]

the water soaks through the existing decorative gravel and hardcore

[Tony McC]

I'm going to have to start licensing my "ideas" before some other bugger does!

Had a drive past Nr 8 the other day, Mick - looks very good! Hope you've got photies for the portfolio.

[mickg]

Thanks Tony, yeah I have got the photos on the home page of my website, if you click refresh a few times there are 5 photos what rotate

[cookiewales]

very tidy work that mick can get you tumbled sand stone same sizes as them blocks laid the same as blockpaving am doing some display panals soon 20 pound m2 cheers cookie :p

[mickg]

Thanks Cookie let me know when the panels are ready and I will have a look at them

[lutonlagerlout]

can someone give me the definitive answer here
i prefer the way mickg has laid his kerbs there with no mortar joint,but i have heard others talk of buttering every kerb with mortar
which is right? i appreciate on a radius it has to be buttered
but on a straight run,does it matter?
LLL

[seanandruby]

I would of thought it is purely the users choice. It is, maybe, a case of personal aesthetics. The fact they are laid directly on a sand cement bedding, with no haunching would concern me more, especially as they may be acting as a buffer. Good job all the same.

[mickg]

in my opinion there is no definitive answer as both ways are correct, what is more important is the concrete bed what they are bedded on and the concrete haunching to hold them in place

if the radius kerbs are buttered then I would butter all of the straight run to match but that said I normally cut my own taper kerbs if they are not manufactured

large key kerb lay flat cut to taper 10mm to nothing




I use two different plywood radius profiles what i have made and depending on the tightness of a corner i will use either of them, theses photos show the tightest i will go before cutting the kerb to shape or using a manufactured radius kerb

plaspave weathered kerb


close up of the same radius using plaspave weathered kerb


I normally butter the kerbs together on a step where the radius is tighter


these steps used a mixture of the tegula kerbs straight and tapered

[cookiewales]

morar joints give more stabilty on steps but as in micks work you need to be at the top f your game to achive this,i have done sharper radious but still cut and pointed them.am not a big fan of block paving but when i see the effort and skill levels shown by mick and others on this forum have changed my mind .but pernsonly love laying the real thing in my early days laid lots of block and clay paviours.long time ago .keep up the good work mick cheers cookie :p

[lutonlagerlout]

top quality stuff there mickg
i have done the herringbone with drivesett duo and i noticed the same thing that you cannot keep all the cuts above a third
that really is top work though
LLL

[Dave_L]

Nice work!

Not a fan of block paving, you can't lay it with a grading bucket or by machine!!!

[GB_Groundworks]

you can lay block paving with a machine, and even a robot now haha

might give it a go with a grading bucket if i get 5 minutes to play haha

[Dave_L]

But only big areas etc and certain palletised blocks (at great cost lol)