How hard is clay pavers to lay
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they are no different to standard concrete pavoirs to lay, the only thing is they wont cut with a standard probst block snapper, you need the clay pavoir cutter which has different blades in it, or you can disc cut them,the best thing with clay pavoirs is they don't fade like concrete ones do MSH
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There is very little point in cutting 10/20mm with disc cutter then snapping that is rough to say the least, clay pavoirs are not made to snap in a standard probst snapper,because off the uneven surface the need the multi section blade in the clay pavoir cutter, before i bought one HSS hire and speady hire had them for hire ata sensible hire rate,clay pavoirs w
ill chip very easy if not cut correctly and are to expensive to waste MSH
ill chip very easy if not cut correctly and are to expensive to waste MSH
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err i may be wrong but i lay clays with a line,the small differences in size can soon make a driveway rack out of control without it,you only need the line every 1200 or so to keep things straight
i find they cut easily with a water attachment on the stihl
also need a edit* neoprene * edit mat on the wacker,tried the carpet trick once but it was an epic failure
LLL
Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1238623168
i find they cut easily with a water attachment on the stihl
also need a edit* neoprene * edit mat on the wacker,tried the carpet trick once but it was an epic failure
LLL
Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1238623168
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The laying is no more difficult than it would be for concrete blocks. The difficulties arise from alignment and cutting, as pointed out above.
For the alignment, you *MUST* use taut string lines as a guide. The paviors are not geometrically perfect rectangles like their concrete cousins, so they don't 'self-align'. You have to accept that some joints will be tighter or looser than others as each pavior is positioned according to the line, not according to its proximity to its neighbour.
For the cutting, you can get a purpose-made clay pavior splitter, but in all honesty, you'll experience less wastage using a cut-off saw. You MUST have dust suppression and I can;t recommend too strongly the use of a bench-mounted masonry saw rather than a standard hand-held cut-off saw. Standing upright, with no bent back or aching hamstrings is a better way of working and will help you be more accurate with your cutting.
There will *definitely* be a feature on laying clay pavers later this spring. The text is more or less written and the photos are being arranged as I type (or when I've finished typing this, to be totally honest!)
For the alignment, you *MUST* use taut string lines as a guide. The paviors are not geometrically perfect rectangles like their concrete cousins, so they don't 'self-align'. You have to accept that some joints will be tighter or looser than others as each pavior is positioned according to the line, not according to its proximity to its neighbour.
For the cutting, you can get a purpose-made clay pavior splitter, but in all honesty, you'll experience less wastage using a cut-off saw. You MUST have dust suppression and I can;t recommend too strongly the use of a bench-mounted masonry saw rather than a standard hand-held cut-off saw. Standing upright, with no bent back or aching hamstrings is a better way of working and will help you be more accurate with your cutting.
There will *definitely* be a feature on laying clay pavers later this spring. The text is more or less written and the photos are being arranged as I type (or when I've finished typing this, to be totally honest!)
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as stated by tony on another post its not rubber its neoprene
so, no a car mat certainly will not do.
so, no a car mat certainly will not do.
Giles
Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.
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Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.
http://www.gbgroundworks.com
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My sixpence worth, just so that you know I'm still around. 1)Hire the matt with the wacker, it costs so little extra and you cannot do without it. 2) In the laying - (this is an alternative to the string) which worked well for me. Generally the edge setts are haunched into place and give you side to side alignment. I then choose a larger sett to buttup to the previous line of setts, and do the same at the other end of the long straightedge that Ive placed 000000000000000000000000000
0 0
------------------------------- butt up against 2 setts.
I then fill in the cavity putting the row of setts up against the straightedge, which gives me nice straight lines. (I keep on moving the string to my frustration) It sounds cumbersome but you get the hang of it quite quickly.
0 0
------------------------------- butt up against 2 setts.
I then fill in the cavity putting the row of setts up against the straightedge, which gives me nice straight lines. (I keep on moving the string to my frustration) It sounds cumbersome but you get the hang of it quite quickly.
W.G.Carter-Smith
http//:victoriancobbles.co.za
http//:victoriancobbles.co.za
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as you are aware i have never layed the clay pavers, my friend has and he used conveyer belt on the bottom of his wacker and he said it was fine, i told him i went on this site and they said you cant use any sort of rubber to which he replied, Course you F***ing can, dont know what to do for the best,