Hi,
Would apprieciate any help on a problem in constructing a suitable edging to a new bock driveway.
Its a straight run of about 10m x 2.2m but it runs parallel to, and within a few cm of next doors driveway , both currently flags and gravel.
Over the years both drives have sunk slightly, so my new drive, correctly levelled, will be slightly higher than theirs - up to 50mm in places.
As well detailed on this site, it would normally just need an edging stone with a good haunch.
My problems are that I cannot put the haunch on/under thier property and also I need an edging that can withstand the load when cars are driven diagonally over it.
I know a 100 -150mm haunch with its top levelled to that of the blocks would work but think that would be difficult to lay and also look rather unsightly against the blocks - just wondered if there was any better way of producing a strong but good looking edge.
thanks
Ricky678
Block paving edging
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If you can't 'borrow' 150mm or so of the neighbour's drive while you get haunching in place, you have a couple of options.
One would be to use a form of sheet piling, on a relatively small scale, to act as a retainer behind the edge course. The 200mm or 300mm version of EverEdge are pretty good, and comparatively cost effective, for this type of construction. I did a drawing for them earlier this year....
....the optional retainer spikes that are available with the ProEdge are immensely beneficial in just this situation.
The LH edge shows concrete being used, but concentrate on the RH edge: the EverEdge ProEdge can be installed and fixed with the additional spikes, and then the edge course course blocks should be laid on a concrete bed, as per normal. This will ensure they cant be forced downwards by vehicle overrun, but will also provide some resistance to lateral spreading, especially if the concrete is wetter and allowed to bond to the underside of the pavers. In extreme circs, I'd be tempted to prime the underside of the blocks with a SBR slurry to ensure a firm bond between paver and bed, but for typical domestic traffic, this is probably over-engineering.
The second option involves creating the actual retainer edge some way in from the visible edge. Again, this is probably best explained by means of a drawing...
....where the actual physical retainer is 100mm in from the visible edge and the haunching is disguised by using a block slip (you'll have to saw down existing blocks to, say, 20mm depth) or covered with a decorative gravel.
Edited By Tony McC on 1230718483
One would be to use a form of sheet piling, on a relatively small scale, to act as a retainer behind the edge course. The 200mm or 300mm version of EverEdge are pretty good, and comparatively cost effective, for this type of construction. I did a drawing for them earlier this year....
....the optional retainer spikes that are available with the ProEdge are immensely beneficial in just this situation.
The LH edge shows concrete being used, but concentrate on the RH edge: the EverEdge ProEdge can be installed and fixed with the additional spikes, and then the edge course course blocks should be laid on a concrete bed, as per normal. This will ensure they cant be forced downwards by vehicle overrun, but will also provide some resistance to lateral spreading, especially if the concrete is wetter and allowed to bond to the underside of the pavers. In extreme circs, I'd be tempted to prime the underside of the blocks with a SBR slurry to ensure a firm bond between paver and bed, but for typical domestic traffic, this is probably over-engineering.
The second option involves creating the actual retainer edge some way in from the visible edge. Again, this is probably best explained by means of a drawing...
....where the actual physical retainer is 100mm in from the visible edge and the haunching is disguised by using a block slip (you'll have to saw down existing blocks to, say, 20mm depth) or covered with a decorative gravel.
Edited By Tony McC on 1230718483
Site Agent - Pavingexpert
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Hi,
Pic attached, the problem is that I cannot go 1mm onto next doors property, even if it was a haunch under the gravel, afraid thats the way they are, the boundary being down the middle of the left hand strip of gravel - about 50mm wide at the top and 400mm at the bottom.
Just need something strong enough and 100% on my land, capable of taking the load when cars go over the edge of the new block drive, and that does not look an eyesore - if you see my point ?
thanks
Pic attached, the problem is that I cannot go 1mm onto next doors property, even if it was a haunch under the gravel, afraid thats the way they are, the boundary being down the middle of the left hand strip of gravel - about 50mm wide at the top and 400mm at the bottom.
Just need something strong enough and 100% on my land, capable of taking the load when cars go over the edge of the new block drive, and that does not look an eyesore - if you see my point ?
thanks
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i used Ever Edge last month for a garden project used 800l/m what a job glad to see back of it,
but i thick it is one off the best option in this case,as you need a small amount will be cost efective and quick to fit ,my lot cost best part of £4000, give them a ring
but i thick it is one off the best option in this case,as you need a small amount will be cost efective and quick to fit ,my lot cost best part of £4000, give them a ring
paving, mini-crusher, mini-digger hire and groundwork
http://mshpaving.co.uk
http://mshpaving.co.uk
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Rick was going to give you a bit of info but on seeing the words and pictures submitted by our block father you have all the info you need.The edge restraint you choose to use and there are many of them on the market can be positioned precisely where you need it to be without annoying the neighbors and without compromising the structural intregrity of your own drive.Shop around for the best deals.
"come on lads its dry rain falling now"