Screed rails

All forms of block paving, brick paving, flexible or rigid, concrete or clays, new construction or renovation
Post Reply
GaryN
Posts: 66
Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2003 4:07 pm
Location: Colchester, essex

Post: # 3023Post GaryN

Tony,
In the past I have used lengths of timber as screed rails. You mention that 20mm steel conduit can be used. Have you found this to be the best option? On longer lengths is there any problem with flex in the conduit?
Regards
Gary

84-1093879891

Post: # 3024Post 84-1093879891

Flex in the conduits is a problem, but we do our best to keep our lengths as straight and true as possible. We have a length of 100mm uPVC pipe in which to keep the conduit when it's not being used, and so protect it from accidental damage and bending, but, even so, we generally would expect to get only 6-12 months from each length before it gets damaged in some way.

Occasionally, it's possible to straighten deformed sections, but more often than not, we end up sawing the warped longer lengths into shorter sections, which come in handy when we need to screed awkward areas.

There's a manufacturer that has 'adapted' this idea and produces a screed rail kit using the same principle in a more lightweight (and expensive) form. I've been meaning to write a piece on their products since last Spring when they forst approached me, but I never seem to have any free time these days. Anyway, if you want to take a peek at their website, I'd be interested to hear what you think of the idea - and the prices!

GaryN
Posts: 66
Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2003 4:07 pm
Location: Colchester, essex

Post: # 3028Post GaryN

I've had a look at their website and gave them a ring. I think it's a good idea and nicely packaged and asked for their prices- around 120 pounds for the sub-contractors kit! I think this is a bit on the steep side bearing in mind what they're selling is basically lengths of conduit in a nice kit. I like the idea of being able to join lengths together but I think this idea could be adapted for use with normal steel conduit which costs considerably less. They're sending me details through the post with the price list but I have a feeling I'll be purchasing steel conduit instead!!
Regards
Gary

84-1093879891

Post: # 3029Post 84-1093879891

My concern is that there's no screeder board included. Even if it was a bog-standard 3m length of aluminium I-bar, it would be summat, and far more use than a crappy rubber clonker and yet another pair of gloves. I don't know of a subby currently working that doesn't have at least one rubber clonker in their tool kit!

If it came with a selection of aluminium screeder boards, say a 2, 3 and 4m length, it would be more attractive to many subbies.

I have a set of drawings somewhere for an extendable ali screeder board that my mate in the double glazing business was going to knock up for me. That was another of my grand ideas that was going to make me fortune! ;)

bobinalongnicly
Posts: 18
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2003 9:39 pm

Post: # 3031Post bobinalongnicly

im a blacksmith/ metalworker by trade,but one thing and another (divorce) has led me to sell my buis and move to the midlands where i find myself doing lotsssss of paving etc,, i can make all different kinds of screeding equipment and i have some great ideas that i will shortly knock up for myself, so if anyone is intrested let me know and we can have a chat,

suki
Posts: 64
Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2002 11:34 pm

Post: # 3035Post suki

i stopped using timber about 4 years ago and invested in alu,i use lots of different sizes in 10 guage box sectional aluminium which works real nice i screed using boxed 2x3 alu i have looked at screeding kits and am not impressed by them i prefer to have different length's i usually screed in one go 15ft x 10 ft sectiions 2ppl on the rail and one guy on the shovel & float working what they screed off

(Edited by suki at 9:15 am on Dec. 28, 2003)

Post Reply