hiya,
in my previous thread 'how do edging blocks get fixed' i've added a reply which, hopefully, explains my question a bit more clearly. If someone has the time & inclination i would appreciate a reassuring reply. Ta lots
more questions
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84-1093879891
How did you manage to post that without it being date stamped and identified as a thread containing a new message? Did you edit a previous post? If so, that defeats the workings of the system which is designed to automatically 'flag' new posts so that regular readers (including myself) can keep up with who's posting what and when!
Anyway, so that other readers don't have to go off in search of an old thread, here's what you writted....
hi tony,
ta for the reply. i can assure you that i have understood from your web site that containing the finished surface lateraly (sideways) is essential, especially as i will have a mates van parking on it.
what i am unclear about is, for example, where i am laying blocks against a restraining wall, i will use a bed of damp mix concrete to fix the level of the block & the house wall will stop it moving sideways.
But, not having done stuff like this before, i just wonder if such an edging block will get jiggled upwards & become loose because it is not mortared in or is the idea that such edging blocks also get locked in by sand working into the joint between block & wall.
And the same thing applies to the edging blocks that are restrained by haunching - should i avoid the edging blocs with the vib plate.
thanks for your help. things are getting on now that i'm talking about getting edges down.
I uploaded a new page over the weekend dealing with edge courses and I think you might find it useful.
Once an edge courses is laid, the jointing sand helps to secure them in place. There is no need for a bond between the edge units and the bedding/haunching, as that is simply a restraint that is moulded to the required shape. Once the concrete bed/haunch is hard, any minor movement of the blocks is immaterial.
So, when you come to compact the paving, the usual method relies on making only one or two passes over the edge courses, just to rattle in the jointing sand, while concentrating on the body of the paving, ensuring it is thoroughly compacted and flush with the blocks of the edge course.
Does that help?
Anyway, so that other readers don't have to go off in search of an old thread, here's what you writted....
hi tony,
ta for the reply. i can assure you that i have understood from your web site that containing the finished surface lateraly (sideways) is essential, especially as i will have a mates van parking on it.
what i am unclear about is, for example, where i am laying blocks against a restraining wall, i will use a bed of damp mix concrete to fix the level of the block & the house wall will stop it moving sideways.
But, not having done stuff like this before, i just wonder if such an edging block will get jiggled upwards & become loose because it is not mortared in or is the idea that such edging blocks also get locked in by sand working into the joint between block & wall.
And the same thing applies to the edging blocks that are restrained by haunching - should i avoid the edging blocs with the vib plate.
thanks for your help. things are getting on now that i'm talking about getting edges down.
I uploaded a new page over the weekend dealing with edge courses and I think you might find it useful.
Once an edge courses is laid, the jointing sand helps to secure them in place. There is no need for a bond between the edge units and the bedding/haunching, as that is simply a restraint that is moulded to the required shape. Once the concrete bed/haunch is hard, any minor movement of the blocks is immaterial.
So, when you come to compact the paving, the usual method relies on making only one or two passes over the edge courses, just to rattle in the jointing sand, while concentrating on the body of the paving, ensuring it is thoroughly compacted and flush with the blocks of the edge course.
Does that help?
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nicko
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