Sika block paving fix -v- kiln dried sand
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Hi what a great site. Has anyone got thoughts on this product "Sika Block Paving Fix"
My drive as got a steep fall on it some, 350mm over 7 metres.
When I have finnished it, I will wash cars on it, So should i use something like this to prevent the joints being washed out insted of kiln dried or start with kiln dried and finnish finnal top up with this, as its around £20 per 15klo drum. Or have you got any other recommendations
This is what Sika states about it
Easily applied, simply sweep Sika Block Paving Fix into all joint widths and seal by soaking with water. The mix dries to a hard cured, durable finish that resists weed growth and protects the surface from moisture.
Sika Block Paving Fix fits all joint widths, and is packaged in an easy to carry, stackable, 15kg bucket. Each bucket provides coverage for approximately 35m2 of paving (e.g. 450mm x 450mm paving with a 2mm x 25mm joint). Unlike cement, Sika Bond Paving Fix also enables the block paving to be re-used if required.
My drive as got a steep fall on it some, 350mm over 7 metres.
When I have finnished it, I will wash cars on it, So should i use something like this to prevent the joints being washed out insted of kiln dried or start with kiln dried and finnish finnal top up with this, as its around £20 per 15klo drum. Or have you got any other recommendations
This is what Sika states about it
Easily applied, simply sweep Sika Block Paving Fix into all joint widths and seal by soaking with water. The mix dries to a hard cured, durable finish that resists weed growth and protects the surface from moisture.
Sika Block Paving Fix fits all joint widths, and is packaged in an easy to carry, stackable, 15kg bucket. Each bucket provides coverage for approximately 35m2 of paving (e.g. 450mm x 450mm paving with a 2mm x 25mm joint). Unlike cement, Sika Bond Paving Fix also enables the block paving to be re-used if required.
Colin C
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If brushed in when totally dry the kiln dried sand wont wash away when washing your car.
It will do if you blast your car and the drive with a pressure washer though.
Personally, I wouldnt waste my money on any of these driveway sealants (personal opinion).
Just have someone clean your driveway with a rotary cleaner when needed. They only take 3 - 4 mm of sand as opposed to a lance which can take out most of the sand between the blocks and often below the blocks as well.
It will do if you blast your car and the drive with a pressure washer though.
Personally, I wouldnt waste my money on any of these driveway sealants (personal opinion).
Just have someone clean your driveway with a rotary cleaner when needed. They only take 3 - 4 mm of sand as opposed to a lance which can take out most of the sand between the blocks and often below the blocks as well.
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350mm over 7m isn't that severe a fall. If you're worried about cost best thing would be to suck it and see. Do the joints with kiln dried then see how it goes if you're not happy after a few months top sand up and use a joint stabiliser or quallity paving sealer. Both will bind the sand but I reckon it won't be necessary. There is either a page on the main site about this or I remember a thread a while back about this topic have a look.
Can't see it from my house
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Sika are pushing the "Block Paving Fix" jollop as an alternative to Kiln Dried Sand (KDS). It's the same polymeric as PaveFix, the not terribly good one that is sold for use with patio flagstones.
Polymeric or chemically bound sands for jointing block paving are popular in the US, and there's an effort by some manufacturers/distributors to promote them in Britain and Ireland even though we've managed quite well without them for over 30 years. There are instances where a polymeric would be a suitable alternative to KDS plus sealant, but these instances are the exception rather than the rule.
My approach would be to use the relatively cheap KDS and then, if (and it's a fairly big IF) the paving starts to suffer from excessive scour or similar problems with the jointing, consider using a polymeric to ameliorate/eliminate the problem. I would be loath to use a polymeric from the start.
Further, if scour or jointing loss was a problem, I'd still prefer to use KDS plus a quality sealant. That offers "fixing" of the jointing plus protection of the blocks for about the same price, whereas a polymeric offers only fixing of the jointing.
Polymeric or chemically bound sands for jointing block paving are popular in the US, and there's an effort by some manufacturers/distributors to promote them in Britain and Ireland even though we've managed quite well without them for over 30 years. There are instances where a polymeric would be a suitable alternative to KDS plus sealant, but these instances are the exception rather than the rule.
My approach would be to use the relatively cheap KDS and then, if (and it's a fairly big IF) the paving starts to suffer from excessive scour or similar problems with the jointing, consider using a polymeric to ameliorate/eliminate the problem. I would be loath to use a polymeric from the start.
Further, if scour or jointing loss was a problem, I'd still prefer to use KDS plus a quality sealant. That offers "fixing" of the jointing plus protection of the blocks for about the same price, whereas a polymeric offers only fixing of the jointing.
Site Agent - Pavingexpert
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Sika, if they are the same brand as I've used in the auto body repair trade are very well respected for their adhesives and sealants.
Sikaflex - sticks like shit to a blanket! Ideal for sticking things all automotive!
Sikaflex - sticks like shit to a blanket! Ideal for sticking things all automotive!
RW Gale Ltd - Civils & Surfacing Contractors based in Somerset
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Sika added to cement is good for stopping leaks but you have to be quick as it goes off in about 40 seconds. its also good for concrete repair i have repaired broken collars on concrete pipes with it and it does a neat job. as a joint filler i suppose it has to be tried and tested. it is a massive company so it has a reputation to uphold.
sean