Hi Tony
The hour is nearly at hand.
I shall start extending my drive next week,
and wanted your help to finalise a few details.
The contractor used 60mm brett blocks which are of poor quality.
1. I intend to replace the whole drive including the
extension with Marshall 50mm blocks. (total area 35
sq m)
There is a 10mm height difference between the drive
edge and the pavement. This means that when I use
the 50mm blocks, the drive will be slightly below the
pavement level.
How do I increase the height of the existing soldier
course bedding in order to retain the existing level?
2. I intend to leave a 4m by 4m sqaure lawn to one
side. What is the best point to start trimming the
blocks to achieve a 'sweet' bend around one corner.
Extending Drive Part two (2)
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84-1093879891
1 - Replacing 60mm Bretts with 50mm Marshalls - are you using the existing Soldier edgings? A 10mm diff can be taken up be adding extra bedding sand, but if you're lifting the soldiers, too, then they should be bedded on an additional 10mm of a Class II mortar, to ensure they're held firmly in place.
2 - Eh? Do you mean you're having a lawn with a 4 metre radius? I can't follow what you mean!
2 - Eh? Do you mean you're having a lawn with a 4 metre radius? I can't follow what you mean!
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69-1093879240
Thanks for the speedy response Tony
I will replace the existing soldiers as well.
How do you achieve a class II mortar mix?
The total surface area of the lawn 16m sq (4m X 4m)
the soldiers will run along two sides of the square to form the curve, i.e as you approach my house, the drive will bend to the right along the two edges of the lawn.
I hope I am making sense to you.
And thanks for having the patience of a Saint for us.
Regards
I will replace the existing soldiers as well.
How do you achieve a class II mortar mix?
The total surface area of the lawn 16m sq (4m X 4m)
the soldiers will run along two sides of the square to form the curve, i.e as you approach my house, the drive will bend to the right along the two edges of the lawn.
I hope I am making sense to you.
And thanks for having the patience of a Saint for us.
Regards
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84-1093879891
The 'recipe' for a Class II mortar is given on the [url=http://www'pavingexpert.,com/mortars.htm]Mortars[/url] page. Basically, it's a 3:1 mix. :)
As fopr your lawn edging, if you've a 4x4 lawn, then the size of radius you choose is a matter of personal taste. Using a 4m radius would take a big chunk off the lawn, but would give you a nice, easy turn. A 3m radius is a good size for a private driveway, and owt faster than around 2m radius is uncomfortable for vehicles, but OK for pedestrians.
If it were down to me, I'd go with a 3m radius.
As fopr your lawn edging, if you've a 4x4 lawn, then the size of radius you choose is a matter of personal taste. Using a 4m radius would take a big chunk off the lawn, but would give you a nice, easy turn. A 3m radius is a good size for a private driveway, and owt faster than around 2m radius is uncomfortable for vehicles, but OK for pedestrians.
If it were down to me, I'd go with a 3m radius.
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69-1093879240
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84-1093879891
Help with what, Eugene? Can you explain?
If it's help to ensure the setting out is 'square', then you need to use the 3-4-5 triangle trick, as explained on the Setting Out Construction Lines page.
If it's help with summat else, you'll have to give me more info.
If it's help to ensure the setting out is 'square', then you need to use the 3-4-5 triangle trick, as explained on the Setting Out Construction Lines page.
If it's help with summat else, you'll have to give me more info.
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69-1093879240
Hello Tony
I was worried at the time, and as usual its always best to sit back and use the grey matter a bit.
The problem was I got the first mitre to swing my row of blocks 45 degrees to the right, however, I couldn't get the second mitre to swing the rows to swing another 45 degrees to the right, thus obtaining a a 90 degree turn, at the same time ensuring that the row run parallel to the front of the house.
I used the 3-4-5 to obtain a true parallel with the front of the house, then adjusted the angle of the second to compensate. This seemed to work, and looks really great.
I can't thank you enough for a wonderful site, will send you some pictures.
Many thanks once again.
I was worried at the time, and as usual its always best to sit back and use the grey matter a bit.
The problem was I got the first mitre to swing my row of blocks 45 degrees to the right, however, I couldn't get the second mitre to swing the rows to swing another 45 degrees to the right, thus obtaining a a 90 degree turn, at the same time ensuring that the row run parallel to the front of the house.
I used the 3-4-5 to obtain a true parallel with the front of the house, then adjusted the angle of the second to compensate. This seemed to work, and looks really great.
I can't thank you enough for a wonderful site, will send you some pictures.
Many thanks once again.