Is my builder 'taking advantage' ?

[CaleyJayne]

Hia all,
I was hoping someone could advise me please.
I have had a new block paved drive done 10mx10m (which has taken some 7weeks to do...eek!) anyhow it is close to competion and the edge that meets with the pavement is at least 2" above the pavement, the drive slopes upwards to the road. The bulider has put a wedge of tarmac between pavement and drive, this looks bad and leaves a bad jolt when driving over it. Is this normal? if not what should I be saying to the builder? Are dips in the drive acceptable? and the builder says he used a wacker plate over the drive yet my daughter who was home all day heard nothing at all....will there be huge problems if he did not do as he said?
Lastly, the builder has charged me an additional £370 for the tarmac, the drainage thingies and for the soakaway which is 1.5m from the house. Im not sure this is correct and wondered if anyone could advise.
I have put some pictures on http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2980&id=549431382
Thanking you all,
from a very stressd
CaleyJayne

[hondacrm]

Without seeing the site I would sat a 2" difference between the blocks and pavement level is unacceptable. The additional charge for the fillet of tarmac out of the £370 is also unacceptable as the contractor would have known the existing levels before starting the works. Can't comment on the drainage aspects.

All of the block paving drives I have seen constructed in my area have finished flush or very close to the existing pavement.

This is my opinion as a non professional!

[slimdotjim]

7 weeks is a hell of a long time, did he do it on his own. Is the pavement level, it is sometimes hard to be totally flush with the pavement if its all over the place. You say the drive slopes up to the road this I assume means the rain water run towards the house, has he installed drive drains along the house wall? If the dips in the drive are clearly visible to the eye this is not acceptable any dip more than 10mm is not good any dip more than 5mm isn't brilliant. If he used a wacker plate your daughter would of heard it, there bloody loud. The soakaway sounds very close to the house is it a proper chambered soak away with inspection lid or just a hole in the ground full of rubble. what type of ground is it ,not clay I hope. It is generally accepted that a small percentage of extra cost may be incurred due to unforeseen circumstances, all the things you have mentioned would have been taken into account by a competnt block layer.
I hate to say it but it sound like a bodge job.

[Dave_L]

Block paving where it meets an uneven footpath - not always an easy situation to get out of - was the footpath here in question nice and even? We blocked a drive a few weeks back - after completion we cut back 200mm into the footpath (Tarred-over paving slabs, nasty!) and made good the levels with a few barrowfuls of 6mm SMA. But, this repair is undetectable when driving over it up onto the new block drive.

How far does the tarmac repair go back onto the footpath? Have you got any pictures of it?

[Ted]

I always install edging stones between a drive and the pavement/highway.

These allow you to set your levels and mean when the council redo the pavement they don't mess with your drive just maybe the edging stones.

They also help take the weight of a vehicle as it travels on to the drive so the weight is not spread right onto the edge of the drive.

But I have never laid a block paving drive, only concrete ones.

[dig dug dan]

Soakaways must be sited a minimum of 8m from the house. 1.5 is unnacceptable. The drainage channel can be up to the property of so desired.
The level of the drive sounds too high where it meets the pavement, and if he set out the edge blocks first, he should have been able to get this level spot on before blocking the drive.
Have you fully paid for the works? Did the builder come recommended, or did he "cold call"?

[Dave_L]

Off-topic - Thought of you the other day Dan as a mini crusher worked away for the day gobbling up all sorts of nasty looking stuff, locally. Wanted to go and have a look at it working but didn't want to be overly nosy!!!!



Edited By Dave_L on 1181458306

[lutonlagerlout]

Soakaways must be sited a minimum of 8m from the house

??? thought it was 5m dan?
defo in luton its 5m
cheers LLL

[dig dug dan]

you might be right lll. I was quoting a guy who i landscaped his garden for last year who is high up in buildbase. It was his insistance we site a soakaway that far away.

Dave, wished you had has a look. Would be interested to see what make the machine was. Not many like mine about

[lutonlagerlout]

i always think it makes sense to site soakaways as near to trees or hedges as possible so that even in clay the water will be used==> as long as its wrapped in terram so that the roots don not get in
cheers LLL

[IanMelb]

Here are the photos for those of you without facebook:

[lutonlagerlout]

just need a bigger ramp and an edging at the front edge
looks a fair-ish job
would rather see kerbs on those arcs than haunching
at least he used thick blocks
LLL

[slimdotjim]

I have got to say looks allright. Like LLL says could do with a bit more ramp. Why have kerbs been used on one side only? Is that a white down pipe I can see on the side of the building, if so why did you need a soakaway.

[CaleyJayne]

Hi all
Thank you all very much for your replies and Ian thanks for the photos...how did you do that?
Yes there is indeed a downpipe only 3-4' away from the soakaway (that has no terram? just a hole with stone bits in), really not clear why he didnt link into the downpipe.
The builder started at the house and worked to the pavement, so I guess thats why he got the level wrong(?) the tarmac is all sinking and is looking worse than ever
I still owe him £1500, he said it was due once the works were finished, since then he has gotten quite 'unpleasant' about payment and has given vield threats regarding payment. But job is still not finished looking at my diary it was started 10 weeks ago. I dont want to pay him until it is. The bit to the left of the house as you look from the house is not complete yet(approx 4m square), sand needs to be put between the blocks and then several blocks that have sunk have to be sorted out, along with a big area that sunk when the Hi loader came to remove the rubble.
Well, most of the rubble I had to take the remainder to the tip in 7 carloads to get rid of it. The lawn is now quite horrid.
However, the drive does look beautiful, (if you dont look to closely), and I've already learnt that it is unsuitable to wear stilletoes on it as the heel catches on the unevan bits if not careful! flat shoes from now on. Darn!
Thanks again for all your advice.
Big hugs
CaleyJ

[slimdotjim]

It would seem to me that this is your builders first excursion into block paving. As can be seen on this website a competent diy enthusiast can produce a professional finish with a little homework. wherever you start laying the blocks from, a little forward planning is all that is needed to end up at the right level.
If you can, politely point out the areas you consider unfinished and explain that payment will be forthcoming when these are completed to your satisfaction. You say the sand needs to be put between the blocks, is that all the blocks, because there's no way the drive should be trafficed before that happens.
Did it mention on the quote about the removal of debris?
If you could, ask him why he didn't tap into the down pipe and post his reply it could be amusing. But seriously don't part with any more money until you are 100% happy
If you dont mind me asking what size is the area and how much are you expected to pay
ps I always give my driveways the stilletoes test
cheers
SDJ