Permanent outdoor chessboard 8'x8' - How to / suggestions outdoor chessboard

[J Paul Sykes]

Hi, I want to build a permanent outdoor chessboard / patio at the end of my back garden no bigger than 8'x8' plus a 1' paved / tiled surround. Total dimensions 10' x 10' (in old money.) Each tile would need to be 1' (or a little smaller would be OK) square. But I am struggling to find ideas for materials. I suppose the simplest might be just to paint (what sort of paint - masonary?) 32 square concrete slabs black & 32 squares cream/white. But I think this might look naff. I would prefer a "natural" look - marble? (How to treat marble outdoors?) slate? Other options? I need alternate dark / pale, and obviously all exactly matching dimensions, especially depth for ease of laying. I have found zero advice or discussion elsewhere on this weird topic - any suggestions / discussions appreciated please!

[lutonlagerlout]

you could use black granite and white marble tiles fixed to a concrete base with exterior tile adhesive
i say this because i expect most ppl would rather slide their chess pieces than lift them
there are also very dark and very light natural stones available ,you could have "purestone" sandstone paving with "ivory for white,and cragside for black
the possibilities are endless
go to your loacal BM for catalogues and ideas
en passant
cheers LLL

[Suggers]

Brilliant - not so weird - been thinking of something similar for ages - slightly bigger scale - each player has a pair of posh chromed step-ladders either end, and the kids move the pieces, as directed by loudhailer - am with LLL on using marble - whatelse? -
Have local chainsaw sculptor nutter - he could make the pieces out of the massive horse-chestnut that's come down and smashed me fence..... true.
ps - I'm well average at chess, but s**t-h*t at draughts....

[TarmacLady]

wheels or giant ball-bearings underneath the pieces to make them easy to move.

(this idea fascinates me)

[Ted]

My method is diifferent!

I would lay a square concrete slab using a whitish concrete. I would ideallly use white cement, a whitish sand and a whitish aggregate (dolomite would be perfect). I would finish the slab with mag and steel floats.

Then, either when the slab is still wet, I would cut groove lines into the slab using a straigtedge and a trowel or a walking groover. Or I would wait for it to go off and I would cut them using a circular saw set to just a few mm depth and a diamond blade using a straightedge again.

I would then stain the relevant squares with ebony acid stain. http://www.creative-impressions.com/index2.htm.

You may want to polish the board or you may be happy with a trowelled finish. It is up to you.

[Tony McC]

I'd use simple block paving, 200x100mm units laid in a lap pattern to create a 300mm square with a 100x100mm centre piece, and rely on using charcoal and "natural" to give me the board colours.

If you wanted summat more upmarket, the contrast bewteen silver-grey garnite (the notorious G603 from Chinaland) and the dark blue/grey Vietnamese limestone is very appealing.

[lutonlagerlout]

silver-grey garnite (the notorious G603 from Chinaland

why is the G603 notorious guv'?
regards LLL

[Tony McC]

Damp patches keep appearing on the surface, giving it a disturbingly mottled appearance that scares the bejaysus out of some clients. It's actually quite a porous type of granite that is prone to wicking moisture from the sub-layers up to the surface.

[J Paul Sykes]

Great ideas guys -obviously more than one way to skin a cat! Suggestions much appreciated - I look forward to any more inspiration......Cheers!

[Tony McC]

I heard an adage in Coventry last week. I think it hails from Birmingham originally, as that was the accent used to deliver it ... there's more ways to kill a donkey than shoving jellybabies up its arse!