I've about 90m2 of late 60's drive which I assume is concrete topped with 2-3 layers of asphfelt - all very scabby looking. It goes up a quite steep incline - I guess 1 in 6
I also want to create an additional parking area of ~35m2.
I've had prices for block ranging from 3100 to 5800+vat!
For tarmac prices range from 1800 to 4975.
It seems that in some cases, due to unknown condition of main drive, people are assuming the worst and suggesting it all be dug out.
I'm thinking I'll go for Tarmac on the main - and concrete on the new bit - maybe with a couple of rows of bricks/blocks on the edging to add some interest - especially on the concrete....
So now I'm thinking I'll get the new bit dug out and the ashfelt stripped off the existing drive and dumped into the new bit as part of base and take it from there. Any comments?
For the new section, I'm being told that I dont need a base but can just use 100mm of C30 concrete with 'fibremesh' I assumed I'd need 100mm of type 1 under 100mm of concrete - any comments on this one?
Finally, any recommendations in the Chelmsford/Basildon area of Essex.
Steve
Late 60's driveway
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84-1093879891
Hi,
why are you opting for two surfaces? If the main driveway is to be overlaid with new bitmac, then why not have it all done in bitmac? It's your drive, and you can have whatever you want, but, speaking from experience, pavements that use two or more different surfaces always look as though one bit has been 'tacked on' to the other.
Anyway - back to your main questions. I think it's a bad idea to use the scraped-off bitmac as a base. All tar/bitumen and asphalt based products degrade over time, which is why they are classed as 'hazardous waste' when sent to a landfill. They crumble and generate gases, which, while they may not be life-threatening in your scenario, could mean that the new paving experiences settlement in a few years time.
If the scrap bitmac was laid as a very thin capping layer (not more than 50mm thick) beneath a decent sub-base, then it would probably be ok, but you really couldn't/shouldn't use it as a sub-base in itself.
The plan to use a C30 fibre-enhanced concrete for the new section is, basically, fine, but I'd still be happier to see it laid over a prepared sub-base and it definitely needs a DPM. What's the current plan? To lay it over the reduced sub-grade? Unless you're lucky enough to be on a gravelly or sand sub-grade, this could be problematic.
And so to contractors - Essex isn't my part of the world and therefore I don't know anyone 'first hand' down there that lays bitmac for residential driveways, but maybe some other denizens of the Brew Cabin can help you.
why are you opting for two surfaces? If the main driveway is to be overlaid with new bitmac, then why not have it all done in bitmac? It's your drive, and you can have whatever you want, but, speaking from experience, pavements that use two or more different surfaces always look as though one bit has been 'tacked on' to the other.
Anyway - back to your main questions. I think it's a bad idea to use the scraped-off bitmac as a base. All tar/bitumen and asphalt based products degrade over time, which is why they are classed as 'hazardous waste' when sent to a landfill. They crumble and generate gases, which, while they may not be life-threatening in your scenario, could mean that the new paving experiences settlement in a few years time.
If the scrap bitmac was laid as a very thin capping layer (not more than 50mm thick) beneath a decent sub-base, then it would probably be ok, but you really couldn't/shouldn't use it as a sub-base in itself.
The plan to use a C30 fibre-enhanced concrete for the new section is, basically, fine, but I'd still be happier to see it laid over a prepared sub-base and it definitely needs a DPM. What's the current plan? To lay it over the reduced sub-grade? Unless you're lucky enough to be on a gravelly or sand sub-grade, this could be problematic.
And so to contractors - Essex isn't my part of the world and therefore I don't know anyone 'first hand' down there that lays bitmac for residential driveways, but maybe some other denizens of the Brew Cabin can help you.
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sdelasal
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 12:29 am
- Location: essex
Tony .. I'm opting for two driveway styles because the main driveway is sound - it's just been resurfaced too many times and looks scabby. It has one area that requires more substantial patching. So, I don't see point of ripping it all up. I'm going to get the surface removed back to solid base & take it from there.
The reason I don't want tarmac in the new piece is that will be the area I'll use to work on vehicle when I need to. I don't want jacls and axle stands sinking into tarmac. {the main drive is too steep to use for vehicle work}
What I'm thinking now is to use 'black' colour blocks and block pave the new peice. That way at least the colours will be close i.e. tarmac on the main & black blocks on the new piece.
Steve
The reason I don't want tarmac in the new piece is that will be the area I'll use to work on vehicle when I need to. I don't want jacls and axle stands sinking into tarmac. {the main drive is too steep to use for vehicle work}
What I'm thinking now is to use 'black' colour blocks and block pave the new peice. That way at least the colours will be close i.e. tarmac on the main & black blocks on the new piece.
Steve
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84-1093879891
When/if you need to use a jack under one of the vehicles, then you should put down a sheet of timber to help spread the load. This is good practice not only for bitmac, but for block paving, flags and even concrete, as it will protect the surface from scratches and/or indentations. You could use a piece of a decking sheet, summat like 18mm ply, or you could use a piece of railway sleeper or planking or whatever you have available. Wood is the best material to use, as it is less likely to damage the surfacing and doesn't fail explosively in compression, as would concrete.
I think you'll find that the 'black' coloured block pavers are actually dark grey, often termed 'charcoal', and that even the best of the concrete pavers fade with time to a much lighter grey. Admittedly, the diff between blocks and bitmac will be less noticeable with a charcoal paver than with, say, a red or a brindle, but don't kid yourself that they'll ever look the same.
I think you'll find that the 'black' coloured block pavers are actually dark grey, often termed 'charcoal', and that even the best of the concrete pavers fade with time to a much lighter grey. Admittedly, the diff between blocks and bitmac will be less noticeable with a charcoal paver than with, say, a red or a brindle, but don't kid yourself that they'll ever look the same.