Coloured imprinted concrete - Colouring & tools

Setts and cobbles, tarmac, asphalt, resin systems, concrete whether it's plain, patterned or stencilled, gravels, etc.
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katmark
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:33 pm
Location: Workington, Cumbria

Post: # 14263Post katmark

Hi all,

does anyone have an opinion on what the best way would be to produce a dark slate gray coloured concrete ?

My initial thoughts were to go with an integrally coloured concrete, probably using a coloured admix, so that the main colour is all through the job & any wear/damage would not be so obvious.

Would I still need float a (essentially colourless) colour hardner into the work ?

I have found a local ready mix supplier who will add my supplied colour for free (no mention of clean out costs).Costs are around 280 quid for 3.6m cubed of PIC spec mix

OR,
Is it best to use what all the contractors use ie a dry shake coloured hardner.

ALSO,

What are the essential tools needed for PIC eg bugroller, fresno etc.

Is a sealer just for aesthetic purposes ?

Much obliged

Mark, Cumbria

Ted
Posts: 585
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:02 pm
Location: Luanda, Angola

Post: # 14264Post Ted

Both techniques - integrally colouring (IC) or using a colour hardener (CSH) - have their shortcomings.

IC is more expensive than CSH. If the sides of your slab will be visible (ie, if shuttering stairs on/off the slab) integral colour is essential (IMO, unless you use real bricks). Also, should you drop something very heavy on your PIC and chip it, it is more difficult (but not mpossible) to repair integrally coloured concrete than colour hardened.

You will want a bug and floats with both techniques. Integral is easier though, as you don't have to float in the CSH.

A sealer is pretty much essential as it protects the concrete.

katmark
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:33 pm
Location: Workington, Cumbria

Post: # 14266Post katmark

Thanks Ted,

I won't really have any visible sides, my main reason was for ease/speed of install.
I ahven't priced IC vs CSH yet, but picsuk.com do a 'colour conditioning admixture' & CSH stuff.

How about the need for a hardner on top of IC concrete ?

On the tools, I'm going to hire a beam vibrating screeder (probably ran between rails) - will I still need a bug & will the screeder get rid of all air sufficiently ?

as an addendum, I'm not looking for some 'show house' finish with a perfect cobble texture & loads of different hues. In fact I've just been told that I need to aim for v dark gray colour. By the way, what does IMO stand for ??

Mark

lutonlagerlout
Site Admin
Posts: 15184
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
Location: bedfordshire

Post: # 14270Post lutonlagerlout

IMO = in my opinion
LOL = laugh out loud
FUBAR = f***ED UP BEYOND ALL RECOGNITION
etc etc ad nauseum
LLL
"what,you want paying today??"

YOUR TEXT GOES HERE

katmark
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:33 pm
Location: Workington, Cumbria

Post: # 14290Post katmark

Hope I'm not posting a FUBAR one in a few weeks !!!

Any further advice and opinions are much apreciated

Mark

Mark B
Posts: 86
Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2006 12:37 am
Location: Hamilton, Scotland

Post: # 14291Post Mark B

i thought the "bug" was to bring the fat to the top of the concrete, a job the beam screader might not do as good a job of, but you could probably just use the screeder.

katmark
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:33 pm
Location: Workington, Cumbria

Post: # 14301Post katmark

...and depress the aggregates as I understand it. I wasn't planning on relying on the beam screeder alone to do this - I was more concerned with getting rid of all the air.

Will a bull float be OK to float it with ? (ie do I need a 'fresno' as well ?)

Be glad of anyones opinion on the integral colour vs dry shake stuff ?

thanks
Mark :;):

katmark
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:33 pm
Location: Workington, Cumbria

Post: # 14566Post katmark

Does anyone know the cheapest place to buy the tools & / or the materials for PIC ?

Ted
Posts: 585
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:02 pm
Location: Luanda, Angola

Post: # 14578Post Ted

katmark wrote:Will a bull float be OK to float it with ? (ie do I need a 'fresno' as well ?)
I think you can get away without a 'fresno'. I have often seen contractors do without this before. Ask the supply house that you choose what will happen if you don't use one. Whenever I do PIC, I use both a mag (to help float in the colour) and steel (to finish and "close" the concrete) trowel but so far I have been able to set up scaffold boards so have had easy access to the whole of the slab. I just use my plastering trowel to finish it. You can rent Fresnos from Jewsons and HSS but it is not cheap.

Ted
Posts: 585
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:02 pm
Location: Luanda, Angola

Post: # 14579Post Ted

katmark wrote:Does anyone know the cheapest place to buy the tools & / or the materials for PIC ?
Ebay.co.uk.

Many people buy these "off the shelf" PIC businesses from PICS and the like and go bust within a year as they can't do the work and make money.

Also there are many good products available from America on Ebay.com.

katmark
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:33 pm
Location: Workington, Cumbria

Post: # 14598Post katmark

Thanks again Ted,

I've been looking on e-bay - Cadillac concrete (Canada) will send mats for about 130 quid. Haven't seen any second hand ones in UK. I'll try ebay.com.

I've seen the elite crete site & tools do seem reasonable on there. I'll ask about the fresno

Does steel actually close the surface more than the mag float ?

I've priced up vibrating beam screed hire & it's not cheap ! If I just use a straight edge screed followed by rollerbug would this be enough ie to get all the air out ?

Cheers
Mark

Ted
Posts: 585
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:02 pm
Location: Luanda, Angola

Post: # 14611Post Ted

I think the steel trowel does close the concrete where the mag doesn't, but I have seen contractors do a good looking job without a fresno so don't know how important it is to close the concrete...

I don't think you need one of those vibrating screeders. You don't have to do a brilliant job of screeding like you do if doing a floor. You just need to get the levels right. I don't use a screeder or a piece of wood normally; just a spirit level but I do give the concrete a good tamp as I am screeding it.

katmark
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 8:33 pm
Location: Workington, Cumbria

Post: # 14643Post katmark

I was more concerned with getting all the air out than levelling (slabs will be 5'' thick)

Tools mats etc now on order - no going back now !

Just need right weather at time when friends can help.
If anyones interested I'll post pics on site - even if I make a cock up of it all !

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