Curved patio wall
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I am based in Scotland and would like a semi circular patio wall built. I have a sort of semi circle wall and patio at the mo. So have had quote for removal of exisitng wall, new foundations where necessary and a 17m wall, 80cm high re built. Have been quoted £1700 and £4000.
Is the first one reasonable? and also the first guy says use block and the 2nd says can't get a good curve with block - use brick. It will all be rendered anyway - does it matter?
Is the first one reasonable? and also the first guy says use block and the 2nd says can't get a good curve with block - use brick. It will all be rendered anyway - does it matter?
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Here is a comment on rendering from Tony:
"If there's one job I hate doing, it's rendering. I'd rather unblock sewers with my bare hands than have to render a wall, but here's my tips, for what they're worth....
1 - make sure the mix incorporates a good plasticiser and/or a bonding agent, such as PVA
2 - use a building sand and a mix that's around 6:1
3 - aim to apply approx 12-15mm of render, working with a float and feeding the mortar from a hawk
4 - Angle beading is best for corners - you can get it at most BMs, but make sure it's a plastic type as the steel ones used for internal plasterwork tend to rust.
5 - use a straightedge timber to level off the render once it's applied.
6 - rub-up the work with a damp sponge 12-24 hours after applying.
7 - allow at least 7 days before painting and keep it covered during that period to protect it from the elements
Good luck! "
"If there's one job I hate doing, it's rendering. I'd rather unblock sewers with my bare hands than have to render a wall, but here's my tips, for what they're worth....
1 - make sure the mix incorporates a good plasticiser and/or a bonding agent, such as PVA
2 - use a building sand and a mix that's around 6:1
3 - aim to apply approx 12-15mm of render, working with a float and feeding the mortar from a hawk
4 - Angle beading is best for corners - you can get it at most BMs, but make sure it's a plastic type as the steel ones used for internal plasterwork tend to rust.
5 - use a straightedge timber to level off the render once it's applied.
6 - rub-up the work with a damp sponge 12-24 hours after applying.
7 - allow at least 7 days before painting and keep it covered during that period to protect it from the elements
Good luck! "
You're entitled to the work, not the reward.
Bob
Bob
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bobhughes
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Posted: 28 July 2006,17:54 QUOTE
Here is a comment on rendering from Tony:
"If there's one job I hate doing, it's rendering. I'd rather unblock sewers with my bare hands than have to render a wall, but here's my tips, for what they're worth....
1 - make sure the mix incorporates a good plasticiser and/or a bonding agent, such as PVA
2 - use a building sand and a mix that's around 6:1
surely this should be sharp sand for rendering??
regards tony ???
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Ganger
Group: Members
Posts: 76
Joined: Nov. 2004
Posted: 28 July 2006,17:54 QUOTE
Here is a comment on rendering from Tony:
"If there's one job I hate doing, it's rendering. I'd rather unblock sewers with my bare hands than have to render a wall, but here's my tips, for what they're worth....
1 - make sure the mix incorporates a good plasticiser and/or a bonding agent, such as PVA
2 - use a building sand and a mix that's around 6:1
surely this should be sharp sand for rendering??
regards tony ???
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well, done in brick your looking at about 2000 bricks so about £3-4000
is right depending on access and how much spoil has to be removed (where i live skips now cost the eye watering £185 each for 6 yd)
as for block well if you live in the very exposed part of scotland (my mum is from greenock) sometimes concrete block rendered is a better option
i would say that both quotes are for real and what you should go for is personal recommendation from someone who has had work done by these contractors
brick is obviously more aesthetic but is it suitable for your loctaion?
also the thing about redoing the foundation where necessary ,this is way to vague.
either they grub it all out or leave it ,otherwise you will be charged for work that doesnt happen
hope this helps
tony
is right depending on access and how much spoil has to be removed (where i live skips now cost the eye watering £185 each for 6 yd)
as for block well if you live in the very exposed part of scotland (my mum is from greenock) sometimes concrete block rendered is a better option
i would say that both quotes are for real and what you should go for is personal recommendation from someone who has had work done by these contractors
brick is obviously more aesthetic but is it suitable for your loctaion?
also the thing about redoing the foundation where necessary ,this is way to vague.
either they grub it all out or leave it ,otherwise you will be charged for work that doesnt happen
hope this helps
tony
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