Whacker plate - Whacker plate with no rubber base
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 10:45 am
- Location: scotland
Hello Tony, I have been lucky enough to get a loan of a whacker plate for finishing my drive to new garage, approx 21 sqm. This is to be finished off in Marshalls Driveline 50 Brindle. The whacker plate does not have a rubber base to protect blocks when final whacking. Can I use a decent sized piece of wood under whacker and move it as required, such as plywood.
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- Posts: 17
- Joined: Wed Nov 16, 2005 8:29 pm
- Location: Wincham
- Contact:
What you need is either
a) A boat load of silica sand to cover the area and stop the plate smashing nine bells out of the paving
b) A piece of carpet(not foam) strapped to the plate
or my personal favourite at the moment
c) A ton bulk bag, fold it up and use the lifting straps to fasten it to the plate.
The key to the plate is that it compacts, but doesnt bounce and take the face of the blocks. If you use timber it will bounce like a bronco.
On the subject of wacker plates mines just departed this world, if anyone has one going cheap, i'd be interested
a) A boat load of silica sand to cover the area and stop the plate smashing nine bells out of the paving
b) A piece of carpet(not foam) strapped to the plate
or my personal favourite at the moment
c) A ton bulk bag, fold it up and use the lifting straps to fasten it to the plate.
The key to the plate is that it compacts, but doesnt bounce and take the face of the blocks. If you use timber it will bounce like a bronco.
On the subject of wacker plates mines just departed this world, if anyone has one going cheap, i'd be interested
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- Posts: 190
- Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2004 7:28 pm
- Location: Cumbria
- Contact:
I have never used a rubber mat when compacting Marshalls Driveline 50. Had no problems with scuffing or marking the blocks.
Only problem with the Driveline 50 blocks is the strength and quality. On an average 60m2 drive I was getting about 10 broken blocks that needed replacing after sanding and compacting. This was annoying as once a block has been sanded and compacted it takes a bit of removing, thus adding wasted time to a job.
I have been using Tobermore blocks for the past 18 months (about 60 jobs) and have not had a single broken block.
Another thing with the Driveline 50 blocks - in a pack of 488 blocks you will have approx. 20 - 30 broken ones that cannot be laid or need to be used for cuts. To me this is not acceptable.
Only problem with the Driveline 50 blocks is the strength and quality. On an average 60m2 drive I was getting about 10 broken blocks that needed replacing after sanding and compacting. This was annoying as once a block has been sanded and compacted it takes a bit of removing, thus adding wasted time to a job.
I have been using Tobermore blocks for the past 18 months (about 60 jobs) and have not had a single broken block.
Another thing with the Driveline 50 blocks - in a pack of 488 blocks you will have approx. 20 - 30 broken ones that cannot be laid or need to be used for cuts. To me this is not acceptable.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 10:45 am
- Location: scotland
Hello Nigel, I actually bought one pallet of Marshalls Driveline 50, I already had over 1000 Marshalls driveline 60, but I couldnt source the 60mm to finish drive so had to go with 50mm. Anyway thanks for the advice I wont chance using bare whacker on the blocks, will try the bag. But if it keeps coming off will use bare whacker.
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- Posts: 30
- Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 3:32 pm
- Location: North Wales