A few question- bond bridge/sharp sand etc - Natural stone paving

[wario]

*DIY patio layer*

Good evening everyone.

Just reading up on bond bridging- is the method you would use dependant on the type of stone you’re laying? The porosity of the Stone etc have an influence on what should be used?

Also reading up on sharp sand- I didn’t even know that ‘washed sharp sand’ existed. I assume I’d have to specify this? I can’t just expect my local builders merchants to supply it? I’m a little concerned about availability at the moment.

Lastly- I’m on a tight budget (surprise, surprise) and buying online is a minefield. I read that buying Branded Stone is more likely to give me better quality Stone. If I’m having to spend too much on the Stone itself then it doesn’t look like I’ll be able to afford to get it done during this ‘lockdown’ period so naturally I’m looking at the cheap and nasty online suppliers- paving stone direct being one of them. https://pavingstonesdirect.co.uk/

How bad is this stuff likely to be. Time it takes to install isn’t a worry on any of this. I have all the time in the world at the moment so if I’m having to fart around with sizes that aren’t very uniform then I’m not all that bothered.

Many thanks for any response.

[wario]

Also if using an SBR/cement slurry, do you let it dry before laying? Or lay when still wet/tacky?

[Tony McC]

Within reason, there is a lot of truth in the adage that 'You get what you pay for...'

Most of the online-only suppliers keep costs low by having just one yard from which they distribute via pallet truck. Consequently, it is possible to find reasonable quality stone at a price lower than you'd pay from, say a Merchant's yard or DIY shed, but the downside is that you can't see what you're buying before it lands in front of your home. So: read the reviews of these suppliers, do your 'Due Diligence' and you reduce the risk.


As for the primer - it has to be applied immediately before the flag is laid, so a matter of seconds, minutes at a push, and must still be liquid.

[wario]

Thanks Tony.

I’ve found a local supplier so I’ll try to pay them a visit before I buy anything as they have the stock there. That seems like the best solution.

Makes sense regarding the bridge bridge also.

[wario]

It might sound like a daft question but I’ve got to ask- does a patio have to slope both ways? I’m prepping a slope one way- along the longest length as this is the way the garden slopes but wanted to have the shortest length level. This is a patio at the rear of a garden so nowhere near a house.

Also, I’m looking at the depth I need to dig down- I’m at approx 150mm with 20 to 25mm stone going on top. It doesn’t seem deep enough. I’m assuming I need a good 40mm mortar bed.
Thanks for any response.

[Tony McC]

All this info is on the main website

https://www.pavingexpert.com/drain01

https://www.pavingexpert.com/subbase

https://www.pavingexpert.com/layflag3

[wario]

Thanks Tony

[wario]

Went down a good 200mm now. Was only another 30 wheelbarrow loads. Worked out another gradient so I’ve got two slopes built in and have 8 tonne of Type 1 coming on Thursday. Time for a Bath.

[Tony McC]

Think yourself lucky....some contractors are struggling to get *anything* delivered!

[wario]

It’s tough getting stuff I must admit. Luckily we have quarries nearby and a few large companies still delivering. A lot of people I contacted have completely shut up shop for the foreseeable. That said, I expect there will be a few obstacles in my way before I finally manage to lay a single slab!

[wario]

Another day, another question in my head....

I have an EQUAL amount of 4 different size slabs getting delivered at the end of next week.

What options do I have with a ‘Random’ (not really random) pattern?

A lot of the patterns I’ve seen have different quantities of each size so that doesn’t bode well with my equal amount. Am I overthinking this and should I just lay with my own choice, avoiding cross joints and long runs of straight lines?

Sizes I have are:-

845 x 560mm
560 x 560mm
560 x 275mm
275 x 275mm

[wario]

Another quick one- I have some sleepers In place already, on top of concrete with haunching either side.

Do I just use standard rebar and drill through the top of the sleeper, into the concrete and then bang the rebar in? I’m tempted to just gun some resin into the hole before knocking the rebar in.

[Tony McC]

I develop bespoke random layouts - see: https://www.pavingexpert.com/random02

Fixing sleepers: drill the baulks with a wood bit; drill the concrete with a masonry bit; prime the hole-in-the-concrete with LokSet or even Gorilla Glue; either insert rebar then thread on the baulks, or position the baulks so all the holes line up over the concrete hole and use a weighty hammer to drive home the rebar.

[wario]

Thanks again Tony. I think I need Wait until the stone arrives to see what I’m dealing with.

My only option for the sleepers is drilling them in situ as they’re already in. Thanks again.

[wario]

When is the updated forum coming? I’d love to be able to post some photos of my catalogue of errors so the pros could all mock me.