Easy joint, slurry grout.
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Looked at it online and it says it must be put into joints that will drain. If I've prepared and compacted a type 1 base i don't think base is permeable.
The slabs have been laid to a fall of 1 in 50 so drainage on top level of paved area is quite generous.
Would easy joint be suitable for me?
Is it a good product?
Paving is indian sandstone.
Looked at GFTK? 800, 840, 850, it sounds fantastic but the price is putting me off.
Hopefully you can help.
The slabs have been laid to a fall of 1 in 50 so drainage on top level of paved area is quite generous.
Would easy joint be suitable for me?
Is it a good product?
Paving is indian sandstone.
Looked at GFTK? 800, 840, 850, it sounds fantastic but the price is putting me off.
Hopefully you can help.
Cheers
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Fear not. Ideally the joints need to be free draining, but not so much of you have a slope on the paving.
I have been using easijoint for years without issue or problems. It loves injun stone!
I have been using easijoint for years without issue or problems. It loves injun stone!
Dan the Crusher Man
01442 212315
www.crusherhire.co.uk
"a satisfied customer? we should have them stuffed!"
01442 212315
www.crusherhire.co.uk
"a satisfied customer? we should have them stuffed!"
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There's a FAQ considering this.
Admittedly it focuses on the better 2-part resin mortars but the principles also apply to the inferior 1-part products.
Bear in mind that the 1-parters are very prone to going green with algae and moss when laid over an impermeable(ish) bed.
Admittedly it focuses on the better 2-part resin mortars but the principles also apply to the inferior 1-part products.
Bear in mind that the 1-parters are very prone to going green with algae and moss when laid over an impermeable(ish) bed.
Site Agent - Pavingexpert
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A customer recently supplied some weatherpoint as he had an account with jewsons. It was exactly the same stuff, but more expensive. Probably comes from the same factory I would imagine.
It wont give a morter look, you would need easijoint for that, and dry weather.
It wont give a morter look, you would need easijoint for that, and dry weather.
Dan the Crusher Man
01442 212315
www.crusherhire.co.uk
"a satisfied customer? we should have them stuffed!"
01442 212315
www.crusherhire.co.uk
"a satisfied customer? we should have them stuffed!"
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They are not the same. WeatherPoint and FastPoint (which *are* the same) are manufactured on behalf of Marshalls at a factory they more-or-less own in Germany. EasyJoint is made in Ipswich.
They are both 1-part mortars, so I personally wouldn't use either (but that's me!) and while there is little to choose between them, from the very limited testing I've done, combined with anecdotal feedback, WP edges it.....just!
Neither look like a traditional cement mortar, even when tooled.
They are both 1-part mortars, so I personally wouldn't use either (but that's me!) and while there is little to choose between them, from the very limited testing I've done, combined with anecdotal feedback, WP edges it.....just!
Neither look like a traditional cement mortar, even when tooled.
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As LLL says, none of the 1-parts are as good as we'd like, but some are defintely better than others. In my own experience, I've not found any better than GftK 840+, although Romex Easy, along with Fast/WeatherPoint run a close second.
PointFix is a reasonable 2-part - no real issues, but I would say it's not quite as good as the 850 or D1, but as long as you get it thoroughly mixed (which isn't always as easy as it sounds) then you should be fine.
PointFix is a reasonable 2-part - no real issues, but I would say it's not quite as good as the 850 or D1, but as long as you get it thoroughly mixed (which isn't always as easy as it sounds) then you should be fine.
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Thanks. I'm going for pointfix, 2-part but a bit easier on the back pocket. I'll let you know how it goes. I've a paddle mixer i can put in my drill for mixing so that should help.
Apparently it can be used wet or dry, do you have any thoughts if one would produce better results than the other?
Thanks again.
Apparently it can be used wet or dry, do you have any thoughts if one would produce better results than the other?
Thanks again.
Cheers
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Oh, installation video on they're website shows a guy mixing two bags that look like sand, tipping it out, spread round with a brush and striking with brick jointer but saying if it rains during installation it's no problem.
I liked the idea of pointfix because if it went in dry it would be easier to compact in the joints as you go, making a stronger joint.
I liked the idea of pointfix because if it went in dry it would be easier to compact in the joints as you go, making a stronger joint.
Cheers
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Thanks tony. I'll be soaking the area before using product. I emailed pointfix / pavestone and got reply saying you can do it wet of dry but if you wet the slabs first it stops the resin sticking to them, and, reducing the likelihood of staining.
It's disappointing that their installation video shows no use of water, although you can download a leaflet that mentions cleaning any residue with a sponge.
It's disappointing that their installation video shows no use of water, although you can download a leaflet that mentions cleaning any residue with a sponge.
Cheers