Which sealer and pointing to use

Patio flagstones (slabs), concrete flags, stone flags including yorkstone and imported flagstones.
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Mattber1
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:08 pm
Location: West mids

Post: # 115653Post Mattber1

Hi all,

Ive just completed 40m2 of kandla gray sandstone for my own house laid on sharp sand and cement. Im now at the point of pointing and sealing.

They have been down 4 weeks now but would like to darken them with a sealer however ive read if i use sweep in jointing i cannot seal becauwe of residue left from the jointing.

Can i seal first then point the joints?

Whats the best colour enhancer ( ive seen smart seal which looks good) and whats the best jointing ( jointex easy?)

Thanks
Matt
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Stanlyp
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2017 12:32 pm
Location: Surrey

Post: # 115654Post Stanlyp

I sealed and grouted my granite patio last year. I used lithofin stain stop which was expensive but well worth the outlay. For grout I did the back with GFTK 815 and the front garden was done with Larson gunable mortar. The gftk was easy to do while the gunable mortar did get a better finish but took longer.

I sealed mine first before filling in the joints. After the weather we have had I imagine you want to be waiting for the sun to arrive to dry out the been and get the moisture out

Mattber1
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:08 pm
Location: West mids

Post: # 115668Post Mattber1

I did look at gftk but it requires a 30mm depth joint and i only have around 20mm due to the pavers being 22mm. How important is the depth with the brush in types as in some places i may only have 15mm depth?
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Azpects
Posts: 66
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2015 11:41 am
Location: Ipswich, United Kingdom

Post: # 116177Post Azpects

Mattber1 wrote:I did look at gftk but it requires a 30mm depth joint and i only have around 20mm due to the pavers being 22mm. How important is the depth with the brush in types as in some places i may only have 15mm depth?

How important is the depth? It's pretty important, if you don't follow the manufacturer's instructions and it fails you are on your own. In terms of a sand and cement base they can be permeable, for our product EASYJoint, we recommend a 6:1 base or weaker so that water can drain through it

The minimum depth for our product is 25mm and with shallower slabs you need to key a channel in the cement to take it to 25mm. Obviously with an existing base it's hard to know if you haven't laid it yourself whether it is permeable or not so that's a problem along with the shallower depths. There may be products out there which can have shallower depths but we can't speak for other people's products.

lutonlagerlout
Site Admin
Posts: 15184
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
Location: bedfordshire

Post: # 116184Post lutonlagerlout

post 15,000 :;):
no disrespect azpects but I will never use a 1 part polymeric again, they have all failed me time and time again to the point where I have been bitten way too many times geofix,romex terrasse,weatherpoint,its a matter of time for all of them

gftk 815 can be installed in a joint as tight as 3 mm and as shallow as 20mm and I used it on some kandla grey not 3 weeks ago
GFTK webby

to my mind Kandla is the hardest of the hard injun stones and does not require sealing, it really is bullet proof

I have seen it down for 10 years and just a bit of a sweep and some soapy water and it is as good as new
cheers LLL
"what,you want paying today??"

YOUR TEXT GOES HERE

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