Recessed pointing with brick jointer

Patio flagstones (slabs), concrete flags, stone flags including yorkstone and imported flagstones.
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KAMIKAZEE DIY
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Joined: Thu Feb 27, 2014 8:45 pm
Location: Scotland

Post: # 114898Post KAMIKAZEE DIY

Wondered what the experts think.

Does finishing pointing with a brick jointer to give it the recessed and concaved look make the joints look wider than just "flat" pointed?

I think it does but my only explanation is that because of the concave you see a larger surface area.
For example the circumference of a semi circle will always measure more than its diameter.
Yes, semi circles don't really have circumferences but thought that easiest way to explain.

Can anyone share there thoughts and experiences?

Cheers
Cheers

digerjones
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Post: # 114899Post digerjones

The only thoughts I have on the subject is, using a brick jointer is way quicker than a trowel. Jointer is ok on new bricks and blocks but I hate to see used on old reclaimed bricks it looks shit.
Tony is man to ask, the resident brickie. (LLL)
dylan

lutonlagerlout
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Post: # 114908Post lutonlagerlout

the joint you are talking about ,is called a concave joint it is the bread and butter of the bricklaying game,it is fast compacts the mortar into the face and repels rain,we tend to use a very flat marshalltown 71 jointer for this
so the surface is only very slightly concave
as a lad we used steel bucket handles but this gave a far deeper joint and looked shite IMHO
the other type is weatherstruck,where you run a pointing trowel along the joint to give a slight angle,and then cut off the snots with a french man (or straight edge) this is far better looking but takes around 5 times longer
the key with finishing all brickwork is when to brush
you need a really soft brush and you have to brush at just the right time

too soon and it smears the excess
to late and it wont brush off

hope this helps
LLL
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country boy
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Location: Salford

Post: # 114909Post country boy

If you mean pointing patio, i find finger trowels give best finish i have a few different sizes to hand for variation of joints.
On new brickwork i now use barrel jointers as i found i was buying new marshaltown jointers all the time,like digerjones says on reclaimed brick i always use pointing trowel.

lutonlagerlout
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Post: # 114913Post lutonlagerlout

what is a barrell jointer country boy?
we did use 15mm bar for a while but it is bloody heavy to joint with :-)
LLL
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country boy
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Location: Salford

Post: # 114916Post country boy

I always used marshalltown jointers until about 5 years ago moaning about how they don't seem to last long when saw someone using a barrel jointer and tried it,they do take a bit of time to get used to and have interchangable barrels, Marshalltown make one but i've been using amtech one as they all seem generic, other brickie uses marshalltown jointers and finish seems identical but he buys a lot more than me, also don't get tramlines as you can turn barrel round.

lutonlagerlout
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Post: # 114923Post lutonlagerlout

i know what you mean the marshalltown ones only seem to last a year and I dont lay a huge amount of bricks these days
will google barrel jointers
cheers LLL
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KAMIKAZEE DIY
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Location: Scotland

Post: # 114933Post KAMIKAZEE DIY

Hi, apologies first, question was directed towards pointing paving not brickwork.

Sorry I'm a d!ckhead. Should of explained better.

Thanks anyway for replies.
Cheers

lutonlagerlout
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Post: # 114935Post lutonlagerlout

sorry kami ,we hijacked your thread!
if the joints are tight on a patio,say 7-12mm i think a concave joint looks better
however with some paving large joints are unavoidable then a struck joint looks good

as a kid ~17-19 I did loads of crazy paving pointing with bird's beak pointing
still mentally scarred from it now :;):
LLL
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