Recessed pointing with brick jointer
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Wondered what the experts think.
Does finishing pointing with a brick jointer to give it the recessed and concaved look make the joints look wider than just "flat" pointed?
I think it does but my only explanation is that because of the concave you see a larger surface area.
For example the circumference of a semi circle will always measure more than its diameter.
Yes, semi circles don't really have circumferences but thought that easiest way to explain.
Can anyone share there thoughts and experiences?
Cheers
Does finishing pointing with a brick jointer to give it the recessed and concaved look make the joints look wider than just "flat" pointed?
I think it does but my only explanation is that because of the concave you see a larger surface area.
For example the circumference of a semi circle will always measure more than its diameter.
Yes, semi circles don't really have circumferences but thought that easiest way to explain.
Can anyone share there thoughts and experiences?
Cheers
Cheers
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the joint you are talking about ,is called a concave joint it is the bread and butter of the bricklaying game,it is fast compacts the mortar into the face and repels rain,we tend to use a very flat marshalltown 71 jointer for this
so the surface is only very slightly concave
as a lad we used steel bucket handles but this gave a far deeper joint and looked shite IMHO
the other type is weatherstruck,where you run a pointing trowel along the joint to give a slight angle,and then cut off the snots with a french man (or straight edge) this is far better looking but takes around 5 times longer
the key with finishing all brickwork is when to brush
you need a really soft brush and you have to brush at just the right time
too soon and it smears the excess
to late and it wont brush off
hope this helps
LLL
so the surface is only very slightly concave
as a lad we used steel bucket handles but this gave a far deeper joint and looked shite IMHO
the other type is weatherstruck,where you run a pointing trowel along the joint to give a slight angle,and then cut off the snots with a french man (or straight edge) this is far better looking but takes around 5 times longer
the key with finishing all brickwork is when to brush
you need a really soft brush and you have to brush at just the right time
too soon and it smears the excess
to late and it wont brush off
hope this helps
LLL
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If you mean pointing patio, i find finger trowels give best finish i have a few different sizes to hand for variation of joints.
On new brickwork i now use barrel jointers as i found i was buying new marshaltown jointers all the time,like digerjones says on reclaimed brick i always use pointing trowel.
On new brickwork i now use barrel jointers as i found i was buying new marshaltown jointers all the time,like digerjones says on reclaimed brick i always use pointing trowel.
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I always used marshalltown jointers until about 5 years ago moaning about how they don't seem to last long when saw someone using a barrel jointer and tried it,they do take a bit of time to get used to and have interchangable barrels, Marshalltown make one but i've been using amtech one as they all seem generic, other brickie uses marshalltown jointers and finish seems identical but he buys a lot more than me, also don't get tramlines as you can turn barrel round.
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sorry kami ,we hijacked your thread!
if the joints are tight on a patio,say 7-12mm i think a concave joint looks better
however with some paving large joints are unavoidable then a struck joint looks good
as a kid ~17-19 I did loads of crazy paving pointing with bird's beak pointing
still mentally scarred from it now :;):
LLL
if the joints are tight on a patio,say 7-12mm i think a concave joint looks better
however with some paving large joints are unavoidable then a struck joint looks good
as a kid ~17-19 I did loads of crazy paving pointing with bird's beak pointing
still mentally scarred from it now :;):
LLL