Hi guys
I have a bradstone, Indian sandstone fossil buff patio (https://www.bradstone.com/products/trad ... ne-paving/) laid by a builder a year ago and there are a three questions I'd appreciate advice on...
I didn't realise slabs needing sealing 🙄 Now I'm reading the excellent stuff on this website and the recommended products for my slabs...
Dry Treat (neutral)
Weiss StainProtect Profi (neutral)
Lithofin MN StainStop (matt/ barely damp look)
ProtectGuard WL (wet look)
Looks like http://www.pavingexpert.com/sealant_trials_report15.htm is the one to go for and cleaning and sealing this week is the perfect time because of the dry weather.
Question 1: that right?
The builder's dot and dab is noticeable on some slabs and i suspect moisture is trapped underneath (see pic: https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8kympoq1oyj0ps/IMG_0145.JPG?dl=0).
Question 2: if after this week of fine weather, the look doesn't change, do I proceed with sealing as is (and therefore locking whatever moisture is still there)?
(Builder is aware of the dot and dab thing and said it's clear up in dry weather. I'm not so sure.)
The builder used dry grouting which has cracked and / or caved in in places.
Question 3: which is the best product to use that'll match?
(I'm trying to get hold of the builder to ask what product he used. If I can't get hold of him and I need to fill the gaps, I have to get something)
Question 4: should that be done before I seal and can it wait until after?
(Reason I ask is that the grouting won't go off until it gets moist, but then I won't be able to seal the slabs. It's perfect conditions to seal this week, I'm on holiday week after and it'll be Sod's law the conditions won't be right when I'm back.
Checking before i seal sandstone patio - 4 things i should check before i seal?
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Stanlyp
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2017 12:32 pm
- Location: Surrey
We had a builder lay our granite patio back in June. I waited about 5-6 weeks before sealing the granite. I used a product called Builders Clean but I'm no expert so worth checking if you can use this product on Sandstone. One it was given a good clean i then left it until we had 5-6 days of warm weather without rain. Then one evening I did around 10m with StainStop MN leaving it to dry overnight. In the morning it looked great so that evening I did the rest. I used a microfibre flat mop and coated each slab. It's becomes easy to see when it's sucks in the sealer so you just apply more. Jus make sure it doesn't pool/dry on the surface. After 30 mins it has absorbed in and was ready to let dry over night. When it rains now the water beads on the paving just like when a car has been waxed. Great product and well worth investing in to protect your investment.
I'm no expert but I would have expected the moisture to come out in 12 months so it's very doubtful anymore can come out now.
I'd give it a good Clean then hope and pray for another 4-5 days of hot weather then get the sealer down.
Reference the grout. I ended up using 2 products. The front was done with gun mortar Larsen GPM. The back was done with GfTK bush in. The gun mortar looks the best but is very time consuming to apply as I'm not a builder. The sealer did help with any going wrong but we used aluminium tape to help with the 5mm joints. The GfTK is great and does give a very good finish but costs more to do.
I got lots of help from experts on here so I'm sure someone with advise.
Regards
Paul
I'm no expert but I would have expected the moisture to come out in 12 months so it's very doubtful anymore can come out now.
I'd give it a good Clean then hope and pray for another 4-5 days of hot weather then get the sealer down.
Reference the grout. I ended up using 2 products. The front was done with gun mortar Larsen GPM. The back was done with GfTK bush in. The gun mortar looks the best but is very time consuming to apply as I'm not a builder. The sealer did help with any going wrong but we used aluminium tape to help with the 5mm joints. The GfTK is great and does give a very good finish but costs more to do.
I got lots of help from experts on here so I'm sure someone with advise.
Regards
Paul
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Tony McC
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8346
- Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:27 pm
- Location: Warrington, People's Republic of South Lancashire
- Contact:
1 - Slabs/flags DON'T need sealing - they may be sealed, but it's not essential.
2 - With that Reflectiove Staining I wouldn;t waste money ona sealant. That problem needs addressing first.
3 - The "builder's" claim that the reflective staining will somehow magically resolve itself is complete bollocks. He's a cowboy. Even his so-called pointing has failed, so why are you giving him any credibility at all?
4 - I'd be looking for the "builder" to completely replace all of the paving at his own cost, and also have him pay for someone with actual skills to install the new paving. Then, and only then, start thinking about whether a sealant is necessary and/or desirable.
2 - With that Reflectiove Staining I wouldn;t waste money ona sealant. That problem needs addressing first.
3 - The "builder's" claim that the reflective staining will somehow magically resolve itself is complete bollocks. He's a cowboy. Even his so-called pointing has failed, so why are you giving him any credibility at all?
4 - I'd be looking for the "builder" to completely replace all of the paving at his own cost, and also have him pay for someone with actual skills to install the new paving. Then, and only then, start thinking about whether a sealant is necessary and/or desirable.
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