Hi guys, here I am, once again, looking for professional advice, as I know this is the best place to get it
My granite patio is 3 years old now and this year I had it power washed by contractor. After which, not surprisingly, the original grout is now missing in places. As it is a rather big patio, but the gaps in joins are only a few, I am wondering if it is possible to re-point only the missing pieces and how do I approach that.
The original jointer used was EasyJoint mid grey. (have to say am not overly impressed with how it is ageing, but apart from broken pieces, the rest looks intact so far)
Can I have your experienced opinion, is it best to fork out all of the jointer and re-point all 44sq m again and find professionals to do it or can I get a tub and brush it in myself only in places affected? The slabs seems to sit firm so far, no rocking.
And if the first option is the correct way to do it, can somebody reccomend contractors in OX11 area please?
Well I won't testify to being a professional, but I've done what you suggested and re-pointed some of my path that had started to disintegrate somewhat and it seems fine.
If it's only visual damage at the top, surely so long as the grout is strong throughout, that's the most important thing?
Basically, I've done what you've suggested to my own path and the slabs are still as solid as ever!
MrT, thank you for response, glad to hear it worked for you, gives me hope
I've came to this site few years ago when had issues with my patio being built, everybody has been so helpful here. Most of the manuals and How To's tell to replace the whole pointing when it starts to fall apart. So I wanted reassurance that what I think will work, will, actually, work. Learnt from experience it's better to ask those who knows first, before doing something that might need more fixing afterwards
Lana
If what you have is falling apart (and the polymerics do ted to do that under the duress of a power washer) then the best remedy is to replace it with a brush-in product that *can* withstand regular pressure washing, which means a 2-part resin slurry.
Yes, they are costlier, but they last for years, no matter what you throw at them. A couple of months ago I re-visited a busy market square that has trucks and vans on it three times a week, plust hundreds of pedestrians every day, and is washed down with industrial grade pressure washers at least once a week. Eight years on, and it still looks like new! Se for yourself
and bin lorries and the occasional artic from my odd visits to Hit-chin , just recently I have contacted a client who we used the 815 with 18 months ago and they are happy with their investment as they call it, the 815 close cousin of the 850 is bullet proof
LLL
Tony, LLL, thanks a lot! I would've loved to replace the grouting for slurry as Tony mentioned, I've read about it before posted my question. Tony, in your example you said you used industrial pressure washer to get the old grouting out. I ovbiously do not have one and perhaps, wouldn't want to try to handle the monster by my blond self either. I've tried to "gently poke" at the stuff that still solid and couldn't get a grain of it out, so I'm assuming either it is still strong enough or I'm doing it all wrong. Giving around 44sq m of the patio...do I have any options rather then find a competent contractor willing to do this job for me? And do you know any in OX11 area who can give me a quote, please?
thanks a lot in advance!
Lana.
Re-jointing residential flagstone paving tends to come in just below clearing blocked drains at a pig farm in order of popularity with contractors, It's time-consuming, can be back-breaking, and most clients fail to appreciate just why it costs so much to do *properly*, therefore many contractors just don't bother responding to requests to provide a price.
The GeoFux will come out with ease if you use a stick with a big nail through it to get underneath the failing jointing and prise it out. It might take you all morning, but it's not that complex a task.
Re-jointing with a slury resin mortar is simplicity itself and the one golden rule to follow is USE PLENTY WATER - you cannot use too much: the more the better. If you can use a sweeping brush, you can joint with a slurry resin mortar.
LOL@pig farm...thanks, Tony EasyJoint that was, that thing you called GeoFux, but I might give a stick with a nail a try at some point. Do I still need to hire an electric stirrer for VDW 850? also, the slabs are infamous Nustone granite, so 20mm depth, would this be enough, as I'm reading, slurry wants 25-30? How deep do I go in between the slabs without affecting their bedding (the joins are laid very close to each other, btw) ?
Lana.
A paddle atachment for a variable speed drill costs less than a enner and givesyou best results, so a worthwhile investment. It can be cleaned after use and re-used with loads of other products, such as stirring up old paint.
Most of the resin mortarmanufacturers and distributors look to cover their arses (and possibly sell more product) so they tend to recommend a minimum 25-30mm depth for their jointing. However, out in the real world, many flags used for residential patios are only 18-22mm thick and, generally speaking, as long as you get full depth (so don't have too much of the bedding mortar pumped-up into the empty joints) there is enough of the good quality resin mortars to do the job.
