Raising garage floor - Concrete

[Cob Nut]

Hi all, I need some advice re laying concrete on a slight slope.

I got a twin garage that I'm knocking into one, one side is lower than the other. I'm looking to get Mixermate to supply the concrete, but I'm confused as to how to get the slope correct. I have tried searches in google, but they all state that formwork is required. Fair enough, but I have a wall one side and the exsisting higher floor the other which I want to level it to. I dont want to have a board between the wall and floor but how do i get the new floor leveled to the same as the higher one?

Its going to remain a garage, not habitable, but I need the floor the same height so I can wheel stuff from one side to the other.

K I'll shut up now.

Cheers.

[Cob Nut]

Ehm, anyone??

I have read the topic on the paved garage and looked into screed rails, but my problem is that one side is a flat sloping floor and the otherside at the lower floor side, there is a wall with a pillar in the middle. I'm unsure how to make the new floor the same as the higher one. ???

Some help please?

[Tony McC]

I'm having difficulty following your description - might be summat to do with it being almost 1 in the morning - but a photie or a sketch would be a big help.

[Cob Nut]

Ok, I took some pics that show what I need to do. The I want the lower side raised to be flush with the higher side.
About 2ft from the garage door, the floor will stop and I will pour a ramp in downt the the door level, thats easy enough.

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=2/5013080454.jpg&s=x11

http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=2/5013113244.jpg&s=x11

Hope that explains the problem
Thanks.

[Tony McC]

The simplest method would be to use a screed rail attached to the wall on the left hand side so that you can screed the concrete from floor on RH side to screed rail and be fairly sure it's level. A simple length of 19x40mm timber nailed to the wall will be adequate as a screed rail - it can be yanked out once youve screeded through and then you can float up to the wall, or, of course, you can leave it in place until the concrete has cured and then rip it out.

When you get near the garage door, it's simply a matter of 'feathering out', reducing the thickness of concrete to tie in with existing levels. However, feathering out to nothing is never a good idea when there's vehicles involved and so I'd suggest a key is cut at the garage threshold to ensure that none of the concrete is less than 75mm thick.

I'd also recommend bonding the new concrete to the old floor, and inserting a flexible expansion joint between the raised floor on the right and the proposed new floor.

[Cob Nut]

Thanks for the reply.
I see what you mean now about making a screed rail. How would you get to it once its poured in? Cant see how you could get it out once its nailed and dried.

My plan was to have it the same height till about 2ft from the door and frame that bit in, wait till its set then make the ramp. When you say "KEY" do you mean to cut down 75mm to where the ramp would end?

How would I Bond the 2 floors as I've been advised to lay a DPC under the new pour and there is a little issue of damp in the far wall. I plant to sort this too.
Final neby question, what is a flexible expansion joint, where could I find one?


Sorry about all the questions, but I know I'm capable of the work but only when I understand how to do a proper job.
Its my garage so I'm not doing this as a profession, but I think you knew that already, lol.

Thanks again for the help, much appreciated.

[Cob Nut]

OK, I've managed to answer some of my own questions by having a good search! Great site.

Next question, how much should I expect to put asside for this to be done, and is there anyone or know of anyone in the Camberley Surrey area that is able to do it?

I would love to do it myself but both floors dont slope the same, 15mm at the back and 11mm at the front. Im not confident about the screed rail and once the concrete is down its down, Dont want to f*** it up. ???

[Tony McC]

Sorry, Camberley isn't my part of the world, although i have been through it once or twice.

Your best bet is to ask at a local BM and get them tpo put you on to a local groundworker. Alternatively, ask the local "mix and move" crowd.

[Cob Nut]

Well after much planing, reading up on here and time taken to get the rail on the same slope as the higher floor, the concrete was put down yesterday. A couple of friends helped out, one of them had done it before. But, the mixer driver wasnt that helpfull and gave us the hurry up as he should have only spent 20 mins per mtr. So we had to go as quick as poss. We got a good finish but there are a few places where there are holes around stones and a few dips (2mm) where we didnt get a chance to smooth it over enough.
As I want to paint it eventualy probably with epoxy floor paint, what and how should I tackle these holes and dips? I know pollyfilla is a no no, but if I need to mix cement and sand what mix for a tough bond and tough ware?

[Tony McC]

High-strength self-levelling compound?

[simeonronacrete]

Ronafix (liquid) mixed with cement, sand and water - plus granite for extra strength.

Needs min. 6mm, ideally min. 15mm with granite. And we have the epoxy coatings.

See screeds and coatings