Would this job result in a defective driveway?

[LookingLively]

Thanks sm76uk, that's interesting. And yes, the more I think and read about the more I see that, at the end of the day, anything goes. It just would be a lot easier if there was 'a standard' that tradesmen and customers could unilaterally refer to for basic supply of installations. And anything different is ok and not a problem, as long as it's made transparent and a disclaimer for all the potential issues was signed. For example, if I create a buffet but leave the client to serve it cos they don't want to pay for staff at that end, then they sign to take responsibility for keeping it at the right temperature and contamination etc. Then they know what they are taking on/losing out on for being cheap!

[rxbren]

To be fair people cut corners on gravel drives if you didn't get a specficatio of what they are doing they tend to do as little as possible
I have never got a gravel drive from any of our quotations people always want to pay less which you cant do unless you skimp on materials whch brigs up the old adage pay cheap pay twice

[r896neo]

Emma,

Sorry to hear of your woes. Please understand that many of us spend many wasted evening and weekends doing detailed written quotes and specifications only to have our quote compared to the guy who wrote a marginally lower figure on a fag packet. Guess who the customer often goes with?? Then guess who gets called to sort out the mess which requires a whole new site visit and detailed quote. This probably explains some of the feelings expressed.

In response to your query, in my opinion 5cm is a perfect depth for gravel when laid on a suitable sub base. Your issue of feeling like your wading through it may be caused by the membrane creating a slip plane for the gravel .

When renovating a gravel drive (which looks tired but has adequate sub base) I would do the following:

Remove all existing gravel

Loosen the top few inches of sub base and regrade to remove low spots if needed.

Recompact sub base thoroughly.

Add 50mm depth of fresh gravel.



Whilst this would be my approach, unfortunately there is no standard specification for this type of work, its largely just experience and opinion.

Mainly standards/regulations within our industry almost solely relate to paved surfaces in a public/commercial setting.

[LookingLively]

Thank you r896neo that's really helpful. And thank you everyone for all your advice, sorry for being so ratty, I can understand the defensiveness if people here have been strife from customers and less than professional tradesman.

[lutonlagerlout]

We had a lady insist on lydd beach gravel
I informed her this was the wrong type of gravel for her drive
she said "I am paying,I will have what I want"
saw her a year later and she said
"you were right"
LLL

[GB_Groundworks]

if I'm doing gravel drives or if it was my house id use a gravel grid system to stabilise the gravel

[lemoncurd1702]

Slate would be a good choice as it lies flat and does not roll around like most of the gravels.
Other than that look for something angular rather than rounded, Granite, limestone maybe.

[LookingLively]

We used Poole Quay gravel, angular and not uniform at all - it even has a few shells in it.

[GB_Groundworks]

from the aggregates page here on the site

Used as mulches or in decorative areas, slate forms an attractive dressing, but when it's used for areas subject to vehicular traffic, its inherent brittleness means that it tends to get crushed down to a dust quite quickly. Now, this may not be a bad thing, as the dust generated acts as a binder and knits together the larger pieces, creating a sturdy, trafficable surface.
For decorative uses, the tumbled and washed slate is a better choice as it has had all sharp edges nullified and the claggy dust washed away, leaving an attractive, colourful, highly textured covering.

[seanandruby]

Emma,

Sorry to hear of your woes. Please understand that many of us spend many wasted evening and weekends doing detailed written quotes and specifications only to have our quote compared to the guy who wrote a marginally lower figure on a fag packet. Guess who the customer often goes with?? Then guess who gets called to sort out the mess which requires a whole new site visit and detailed quote. This probably explains some of the feelings expressed.

In response to your query, in my opinion 5cm is a perfect depth for gravel when laid on a suitable sub base. Your issue of feeling like your wading through it may be caused by the membrane creating a slip plane for the gravel .

When renovating a gravel drive (which looks tired but has adequate sub base) I would do the following:

Remove all existing gravel

Loosen the top few inches of sub base and regrade to remove low spots if needed.

Recompact sub base thoroughly.

Add 50mm depth of fresh gravel.



Whilst this would be my approach, unfortunately there is no standard specification for this type of work, its largely just experience and opinion.

Mainly standards/regulations within our industry almost solely relate to paved surfaces in a public/commercial setting.

Gravel Hardstanding
one from the boss on gravel page.
Excavate to reduced depth of at least 150mm below finished level (300mm below dpc) and cart all spoil to licensed, off-site tip.
Excavate any soft spots in sub-grade as required and dispose.
Supply, lay and compact minimum of 100mm of DTp1 crushed stone sub-base material to falls and levels.
Supply, lay and compact 40mm of INSERT SIZE mm decorative gravel INSERT NAME HERE
Clear all site of debris and rubble on completion and make good.

[seanandruby]

Thank you r896neo that's really helpful. And thank you everyone for all your advice, sorry for being so ratty, I can understand the defensiveness if people here have been strife from customers and less than professional tradesman.

No worries Em, we can empathize with you, it can be very frustrating and hurts when your kicking yourself :;):

[LookingLively]

Thank you SeanandRuby, feel so much better and understand so much more now