Painting over jointing compound

Patio flagstones (slabs), concrete flags, stone flags including yorkstone and imported flagstones.
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temas
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:38 am
Location: London

Post: # 106203Post temas

Hi. I recently had about 30m2 of porcelain slabs installed. 60x60x2cm size, very light beige colour. The main reason I chose porcelain was to try and get a uniform, flat look, with little variation. I asked the installers to make sure the jointing was a similar colour because I didn't want to see an obvious grid. They talked me into using a buff coloured jointing compound, they really didn't want to grout it as I had suggested. Anyway, the result is exactly what I didn't want especially ad the jointing compound very rarely ever dries out and hence stays much much darker than the buff colour advertised.

So the question is, how to I go about painting the joints so that they match the colour of the paving. The joints are about 2cm wide and mostly they are about 5mm lower than the level of the paving.

Thanks for any advice.

temas
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:38 am
Location: London

Post: # 106215Post temas

Alternatively, can anyone recommend a different method for getting a very light (almost white) colour pointing and the best way to remove newly installed jointing compound?

Thanks.

mickg
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Post: # 106218Post mickg

could you post a photo ?

how to upload an image
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temas
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Post: # 106219Post temas

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London Stone Paving
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Post: # 106224Post London Stone Paving

Its a shame that you've got to remove it, looks like a pucker job.
Are you dead set that its got to go? Wonder if its worth sitting on it for a couple of months to see if the colour grows on you?

If you are fully decided that its gotta go, then the only way to get rid is to grind it out with an angle grinder. Not a difficult job but take your time to avoid nicking the edges of the porcelain with your blade.

The joint is a little wide for a grout. Larsen and easipoint both supply a gun application mortar in a white colour

Steve

temas
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Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:38 am
Location: London

Post: # 106225Post temas

Yeah I know. The tiling's pretty good on the whole. Its not easy to see from the photos but the grid doesn't fully match the direction of the garden. This was caused by the central retaining wall not being built parallel to the back of the house, so the patio actually goes back at an angle. If the joints were less obvious, it would help to disguise the funny angle the patio has been laid at.

With hindsight and a little more research I would have insisted on that easy point gun method or proper pointing using white cement and a combination of yellow and white sand.

I'm just wondering now if there's anything else I can add on top to make it better. There's about 5mm to play with in most cases.

Thanks

London Stone Paving
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Post: # 106227Post London Stone Paving

5mm is not enough depth to provide a stable joint, especially in exterior. Its going to crack and break up in no time at all

temas
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Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 8:38 am
Location: London

Post: # 106230Post temas

What about using some kind of latex additive to a mortar mix, to create a slightly flexible, thin screed type grout that binds really well? Like this...

http://www.mapei.com/public/US/products/PlanicreteAC_TDS_EA.pdf

I'm not knowledgable in this area at all, so please excuse me if I'm way off with that idea.

Think I'll try a grout paint like this to start with and see how it goes.

http://www.universealsealants.co.uk/product_groutrescue.html

cookiewales
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Post: # 106231Post cookiewales

gtfk have a white resin pointing for thin joints i know its against all know how but you could try a small section its for joints down to 3mm if you have good falls water should run straight of it would be hard to remove jointing as is but with care you could drop 15mm with care and right tools cheers cookie
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Azpects
Posts: 66
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2015 11:41 am
Location: Ipswich, United Kingdom

Post: # 106417Post Azpects

temas wrote:Hi. I recently had about 30m2 of porcelain slabs installed. 60x60x2cm size, very light beige colour. The main reason I chose porcelain was to try and get a uniform, flat look, with little variation. I asked the installers to make sure the jointing was a similar colour because I didn't want to see an obvious grid. They talked me into using a buff coloured jointing compound, they really didn't want to grout it as I had suggested. Anyway, the result is exactly what I didn't want especially ad the jointing compound very rarely ever dries out and hence stays much much darker than the buff colour advertised.

So the question is, how to I go about painting the joints so that they match the colour of the paving. The joints are about 2cm wide and mostly they are about 5mm lower than the level of the paving.

Thanks for any advice.
I can't comment on your jointing compound not knowing the brand

However, if it is sand based primarily, it will naturally change colour when it is wet, that's how sand works.

If it's still dark in periods of dryness, it could be that base is not allowing water to drain away meaning your jointing is remaining wet and thus your grout looks darker

As an outdoor product, it will naturally darken over time due to dirt getting into the joints but it sounds to me like you may have a drainage issue

Azpects
Posts: 66
Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2015 11:41 am
Location: Ipswich, United Kingdom

Post: # 106418Post Azpects

London Stone Paving wrote:5mm is not enough depth to provide a stable joint, especially in exterior. Its going to crack and break up in no time at all
Agreed on that one, with our product we recommend a minimum of 25 mm depths

mac975
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Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2015 12:04 pm
Location: milton keynes

Post: # 106679Post mac975

What's the best way of pointing granite paving slabs with a 6mm gap and approx. 20mm deep, without causing any staining without using geofix

higgness
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Post: # 106680Post higgness

http://www.pavingexpert.com/setts05.htm

Have a look here.

Geofix is not loved here.

:( :(

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