Re-surface driveway question - Is this the correct approach?
-
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2015 12:41 pm
- Location: Scotland
Hi,
I've recently had a quote to re-surface my driveway (around 173 sq/m) and the proposal is to re-shape driveway with Type 1 Subbase not exceeding 100mm deep and compacted and to lay 60mm of 10mm surface and seal joints with hot bitumen.
I had queried the absence of a binder course and was told that for light traffic a driveway only really requires a single coat and it also assists with drainage. I could have a binder course if I wanted (40mm binding and 30mm wearing) at obviously additional cost.
Finally, as part of the quote it had been stated "Please kill weeds prior to work commencing" and I had queried why this would be the case given the surface is being scraped off for the type #1 and was told "Stubborn weeds tend to be deep rooted so scraping off the surface doesn’t remove the root , this is why the weeds must be killed, otherwise they will penetrate through the new tar regardless of thickness".
Any thoughts on this - especially the direction that a binder is not really required?
Kind regards,
s
I've recently had a quote to re-surface my driveway (around 173 sq/m) and the proposal is to re-shape driveway with Type 1 Subbase not exceeding 100mm deep and compacted and to lay 60mm of 10mm surface and seal joints with hot bitumen.
I had queried the absence of a binder course and was told that for light traffic a driveway only really requires a single coat and it also assists with drainage. I could have a binder course if I wanted (40mm binding and 30mm wearing) at obviously additional cost.
Finally, as part of the quote it had been stated "Please kill weeds prior to work commencing" and I had queried why this would be the case given the surface is being scraped off for the type #1 and was told "Stubborn weeds tend to be deep rooted so scraping off the surface doesn’t remove the root , this is why the weeds must be killed, otherwise they will penetrate through the new tar regardless of thickness".
Any thoughts on this - especially the direction that a binder is not really required?
Kind regards,
s
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 15184
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
- Location: bedfordshire
-
- Posts: 394
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:41 am
- Location: northampton
-
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2015 12:41 pm
- Location: Scotland
Hi,
Thanks for the advice given here as it's helped me ensure I get a decent job. Another question that has come up is when laying the wearing coat I asked (for 173 sq/m) if machines would be used or if it would be done by hand. I was told it would be done by hand - should I be concerned and is there likely to be any significant differences in the finish?
Thanks,
Scott
Thanks for the advice given here as it's helped me ensure I get a decent job. Another question that has come up is when laying the wearing coat I asked (for 173 sq/m) if machines would be used or if it would be done by hand. I was told it would be done by hand - should I be concerned and is there likely to be any significant differences in the finish?
Thanks,
Scott
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 4732
- Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 8:47 pm
- Location: Somerset
- Contact:
If this is fresh construction you really should have a binder course. One layer of 10mm is a bit of a bodge (imo)
RW Gale Ltd - Civils & Surfacing Contractors based in Somerset
See what we get up to Our Facebook page
See what we get up to Our Facebook page