Threshold drainage - Drainage

Foul and surface water, private drains and public sewers, land drains and soakaways, filter drains and any other ways of getting rid of water.
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alpha1
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2015 2:25 pm
Location: essex

Post: # 103616Post alpha1

Hi

I recently got a company over to look at raising my patio to the door seals of our bifolds (the same level as the Damp Course Membrane
Image

I know i would need threshold drainage infront of the doors BUT...

He also mentioned to avoid damp i should have a stone/pebble channel to channel water close to the property and to catch any drips and disperse them rather than the splash hitting the property walls

Where can i find out the requirements of these gullies, stone/pebble channels.

The chap who came over said the gullies, stone/pebble channel is about 20CM wide.
But didnt say how far or where they start away from the property

Does any one know?
Also is there any pre made gullies/channels out there i can buy which i can lay myself? These would feed into the current drainage

Thanks!
N

lutonlagerlout
Site Admin
Posts: 15184
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
Location: bedfordshire

Post: # 103620Post lutonlagerlout

he is talking a bit strange
we have done this detail many times and you either use an aco type drain or fin drain at the threshold height
if the brickwork is existing you either retro fit cavity trays or use code 5 lead 150mm above the pavement height

if its a new build this should have been considered at the design stage and cavity tray and 2 DPCs fitted

LLL
"what,you want paying today??"

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exoticpete
Posts: 117
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:49 pm
Location: Berkshire

Post: # 103624Post exoticpete

Hi luton we are looking at something like this how do you retro-fit cavity trays and is lead the easier option
Many thanks Peter
I wish i worked outside...

lutonlagerlout
Site Admin
Posts: 15184
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 12:20 am
Location: bedfordshire

Post: # 103625Post lutonlagerlout

retro fitting cavity trays involves removing sections of brickwork, installing the trays from the block work to DPC then brick back up and repeat
slow messy and expensive
code 5 lead chased 25 mm into the bed joint 150 mm above DPC and ideally going behind the paving in sections no longer than 1200mm for thermal expansion
easier but not as easy on the eye

if building from scratch 2 course of blockwork inside first then 600mm DPM from the block work down to DPC
3 course of brickwork then a second dpc

all of this is arse ache but it works and serves a purpose

cheers LLL
"what,you want paying today??"

YOUR TEXT GOES HERE

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