Hi
We are going to get our patio in the back re-laid as the flags have cracked and lifted etc etc - reading through this forum I have realised that to be done properly, the flags have to be laid on a proper bed than just spots (which is what I found has been done).
I have had some landscapers come round to give me quotes (ranging from £4000 to £15000!! - serious) - the total area comes to around 130 sqm - it is in the form of a
"[" shape as it goes round the house, the biggest area being about 60 sqm.
1. Most of them said we need a sub base - but reading on this forum I think that is not necessary - we are going to get the concrete flags (they are uniform in thickness) lifted and re-laid - we do not need the level to be raised. Am I right in thinking we may not need a sub base?
2. For that area, do we need any special types of drain (if so - which one? ) or would it be sufficient if a proper slope is given to ensure surface water runs off to the adjacent lawn and soil bed in the garden.
I am new to this forum so have not searched the discussions to see if this has been dealt with before - will go through later today - but would be grateful for all the advise!
Thanks guys!
Patio drainage and sub base
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Landscape4HRE
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lutonlagerlout
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jcbmate
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Hello. Typical problem :
I am looking for a solution to a "rising damp" problem which is not caused by condensation/ventilation I don't think and is most likely due to the small flagged front garden 12 to 16m square failing to drain well? There is no evidence of standing water or waterlogging. It's a Victorian terraced property modernised 70's now with solid floor. The flags outside (pink and yellow checked) are laid too high and cover half the original air brick with what looks like 10cm clearance not the required 15cm to the damp course. The wall is cold because 2 new air bricks have been put in. I have spent a couple of days reading around the problem and am thinking that I need to make sure there are no water sources /leaks unnoticed, then get the flags up and the base checked re-laid with proper drainage channel as per described on here ( maybe by creating a fall of one row of brick from the house to create a channel, maybe add a gulley for water to run off into ? Maybe perforated plastic pipe laid if not already underneath ?) The garden has no visible drains , it is entirely flagged with gradual slope away to solid front wall which is not damp! The path to front door is dry. There is rising damp to the hall wall and all three sides of the front room. The party wall to the house next door is dry. On the other side there is a church -with floor level about 3 or 4 feet lower than my garden level -thus I am minus a lot of land to drain into!
Questions are -do I need a surveyor to advise me? Don't mind paying for advice,or is this overkill? The property is let to students.
Is it short-sighted to go straight to a drainage contractor - if not, who are the good people in Chester to get to quote? Inside the house I plan to let everything dry out once the damp isn't active and install tongue and groove to dado height with ventilated skirting, also possibly remove the band of external concrete render next year when weather suitable.
So everything can breathe again. I think modern concrete, paint and plaster are probably contributing too and trapping moisture in the wall. The tidemark is visible to about 2 foot high internally. There is a damp shadow to waist height on the front exterior wall where the band of render is.
One thing I don't plan to do is put in an injection chemical damp proof course in and re-plaster and re-decorate unless its essential. There is some damp to the kitchen also -the rear yard is sheet concrete but the problem seems minor there as little time spent in that small room. I would do that as separate job next year probably.
Am sure you can tell I am no expert but want to solve the problem properly and am not sure who to go to.
I am looking for a solution to a "rising damp" problem which is not caused by condensation/ventilation I don't think and is most likely due to the small flagged front garden 12 to 16m square failing to drain well? There is no evidence of standing water or waterlogging. It's a Victorian terraced property modernised 70's now with solid floor. The flags outside (pink and yellow checked) are laid too high and cover half the original air brick with what looks like 10cm clearance not the required 15cm to the damp course. The wall is cold because 2 new air bricks have been put in. I have spent a couple of days reading around the problem and am thinking that I need to make sure there are no water sources /leaks unnoticed, then get the flags up and the base checked re-laid with proper drainage channel as per described on here ( maybe by creating a fall of one row of brick from the house to create a channel, maybe add a gulley for water to run off into ? Maybe perforated plastic pipe laid if not already underneath ?) The garden has no visible drains , it is entirely flagged with gradual slope away to solid front wall which is not damp! The path to front door is dry. There is rising damp to the hall wall and all three sides of the front room. The party wall to the house next door is dry. On the other side there is a church -with floor level about 3 or 4 feet lower than my garden level -thus I am minus a lot of land to drain into!
Questions are -do I need a surveyor to advise me? Don't mind paying for advice,or is this overkill? The property is let to students.
Is it short-sighted to go straight to a drainage contractor - if not, who are the good people in Chester to get to quote? Inside the house I plan to let everything dry out once the damp isn't active and install tongue and groove to dado height with ventilated skirting, also possibly remove the band of external concrete render next year when weather suitable.
So everything can breathe again. I think modern concrete, paint and plaster are probably contributing too and trapping moisture in the wall. The tidemark is visible to about 2 foot high internally. There is a damp shadow to waist height on the front exterior wall where the band of render is.
One thing I don't plan to do is put in an injection chemical damp proof course in and re-plaster and re-decorate unless its essential. There is some damp to the kitchen also -the rear yard is sheet concrete but the problem seems minor there as little time spent in that small room. I would do that as separate job next year probably.
Am sure you can tell I am no expert but want to solve the problem properly and am not sure who to go to.
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lutonlagerlout
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jcbmate
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Well I need to check but from memory its concrete over a membrane-we bought the house in the 80's 3 years after the previous owners had grant-aided work -the floor the windows the dpc I believe. Presumably replacing what was then a suspended floor. I had a long standing tenant, when she left there was extensive damp problem which she hadn't mentioned at all! The house was re-furbed to a budget for re-letting and at the time I feared it was just postponing the proper solution, but was all I could cope with at the time about 2 years ago.
Its the internal floor which is less than 15cm above the external flag surface ( as estimated by one of the students by eye!) I could do with proper advice but not sure from who. Grateful for any thoughts on the matter. I am attracted to the idea of electro osmotic system but that's not cheap and if its the drainage that's the issue why do it. I should check the dew point and all that in case its condensation but think it isn't will buy the £30 quid machine recommended off Amazon though...
Its the internal floor which is less than 15cm above the external flag surface ( as estimated by one of the students by eye!) I could do with proper advice but not sure from who. Grateful for any thoughts on the matter. I am attracted to the idea of electro osmotic system but that's not cheap and if its the drainage that's the issue why do it. I should check the dew point and all that in case its condensation but think it isn't will buy the £30 quid machine recommended off Amazon though...
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jcbmate
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Been thinking some more, decided messing with the patio unwise -its been there a long time and could have been done properly. Will hire a VAISALA thermal hygrometer if you can do such a thing and test under the lifting wallpaper for damp-as per Peter Ward does in his you tube videos. Next if that shows true wetness as opposed to condensation will strip back a section of the nice new plaster so my plasterer can see state of wall. Next is either take off all plaster to waist height -if needed for beatheability, not if not- then put in tongue and groove with dado rail and vented skirting if needed. I wonder if I need plaster on brick-I wonder. Put on lime if i do.Will be warmer and let wall dry and prevent such condensation being so bad -wood is warmer. Maybe extractor window fans for kitchen and bath. Yes-think that's it. Thanks for info on here.
Linda J Pike
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seanandruby
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